Truffle Extravaganza

Imagine winding through tiny hamlets with no more than 3 houses, twisting and turning down a mountain, and coming across this inviting room, reserved just for you.  That's what happened to Dr. C. and I with our friends visiting from California. 
Our friend Roberto Angelini from Enoteca Properzio arranged for a special lunch of truffles, at La Cucina di St. Pietro A Pettine.  They opened just for us.  With a beautiful table laid and a fire burning in the fire place, we were greeted by Jack, who spoke impeccable English, and he began the meal with sparkling wine, and then our first course.  I will let the photos speak for themselves, but this was an unforgettable meal in a beautiful setting. 

Loosely translated, we love truffles, we're passionate about food, and we will serve you with honor.

Bruschetta with salted butter, anchovy and shaved truffle

Salad of Spanish pear, provolone, spiced hazelnut, black truffle and traditionally aged balsamic vinegar

Beef tartar with truffle bubbles (they look like caviar made from the juice of the truffle) pistachio oil, black celery quenelle, mayonnaise and smoked paprika

Risotto with white truffles

Passarelli, a pasta povera; made with bread, pecorino cheese and pepper, sauced with truffles

Poached eggs on mashed potatoes, with tallegio fusion and white truffle---can you see I've been taking notes?

Warm creme brulee with sage

We drank a local Sagrantino reserva with each course---amazing!  The restaurant is located near Trevi, about 20 minutes away from Spello, in the country.  If you want to come, make a reservation, and then use the directions on the website--it's not easy to find, we did a few illegal U-turns on the way. 

In the summer, this must be a beautiful place to enjoy a meal. Today, the warmth of the fire and hospitality inside made the day

 

In the distance the town of Trevi

A Celebration of Celery

The town of Trevi here in Umbria grows what is called sedano nero, or black celery; it's not really black, the roots are covered and the chlorophyll shoots to the leaves, giving them a dark green color.  October is the month when this vegetable is celebrated in style with a sagra.  Part food festival, part rock concert (they are so crowded) and part county fair, these celebrations are a lot of fun, and you get to mingle with the locals.  When my friends and I went, we were the only gringos in the crowd.

When we got to Trevi, there was a carnival-like atmosphere in the parking lot, with trucks selling everything from organic honey to candy to Cippolini onions, and fresh produce.   

 

Think I saw this guy at the Del Mar Fair!

Upon entering the city, your senses are assaulted with the noise, smoke from the fires cooking sausages, and the smell of celery.  Yes, celery does have a aroma, and when it’s grown organically under DOP seal, as it is here, it’s sublime.  

Our friend Anne headed towards the band that was playing and then proceeded to drag us all into the fray---I took movies, but told my friends that they are for sale. 

 The sausage grillers were working hard with grills that had flames as high as 5 feet at some points.  

 Unfortunately they weren’t working fast enough for this group!  

Even the president of the commune was cutting rolls---in his suit and tie!

The celery was for sale in the square, and each farmer has a story to tell. 

  This gentleman is in his 90’s and still farming and selling his celery. 

 This is the prize winner for the night.  

After 1 1/2 hours in the square, we headed for our dinner at a tavern located down the hill on a twisty side street---an all celery extravaganza.   

 

Crostini with sausage and celery

Celery tortino with lardo

Sausage stuffed celery with ragu

Wild Boar Stew

Filet of beef with celery and Sagrantino sauce

Raw Celery with extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper

Panna Cotta with sweet celery garnish

Eating with the locals

The men in charge of the sausage brigade; once they found out I was blogging then they had to have everyone in the photo.  This is why I LOVE the Italiani! If you are in Italy during harvest time, there are  festivals in almost every little town to celebrate.  Since I've been here I've hear about the snail festival in Cantalupo, and the Cippolini festival in Cannara, I had to go to this one.  At the end of the month in my grandparents' home town of Gubbio there will be a festival of the white truffles---I'm going to miss it, since I leave here a week from today.  (sad face)  Wishing you a buona notte from Spello.