The Three B’s: Barbera, Barolo, and Barbaresco

 

Although the wines in the North of Italy are well known and prized, the Piedmont (meaning foot of the mountain) area is uncrowded and a joy to visit. The hills are covered with vineyards, and in the distance the alps appear almost as an apparition.

Two grapes dominate the vineyards here:  Nebbiolo and Barbera. The Italian word Nebbia means fog, and that is the beauty of the terroir here: the grapes ripen late in the year, when a thick fog covers the vineyards, giving the skin of the grape a powdery coating.  Nebbiolo is the grape that is made into Barolo and Barbaresco wines. Barolo is grown only in approved areas near the town of Barolo and in vineyard sites that must be on hillsides. Barolo wines are always made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes, which are never irrigated. The crop must be limited, and the finished product must be aged 38 months for the Barolo and 62 months for Riserva, of which 18 months must be in oak.

Barbaresco is named after the town of Barbaresco. Made only in approved areas in the region of Piedmont and only in approved vineyard sites that must be on hillsides. Barbaresco is always 100% Nebbiolo grape.

Barbera is grown in this area, and is either Barbera d’ Asti, Barbera d’Alba or Barbera di Monferrato. Barbera is known as an everyday table wine, with softer tannins than the Nebbiolo; it has a shorter aging process and produces a wine that can be paired well with many foods. In the late 1980’s, there was a terrible scandal involving Barbera and large producers of bulk wines. It has taken 25 years for the small producers to regain traction in the wine market. Barberas are affordable and drinkable now.

For our tasting tour, we stayed in La Morra at ArborinaRelais, a boutique hotel perched above the vineyards. La Morra is a small town surrounded by vineyards and beautiful restaurants. Our first wine tasting was on our way from the Castello di Montalero to La Morra. I visited Villa Giada several years ago, and it was one of the best wine tasting experiences we’d had in the region. This visit did not disappoint. Located in the Asti region, perched over the vineyards, our sommelier Constantine took us through the cellars and then led us on a tasting of their red wines.

Our next vineyard visit was arranged by our Angelini family in Spello, at Giovanni Rocca. This is a small family-run winery, and our tasting was Barbera, Barbaresco and Barolo. After a lovely time with the family, we needed some food—one cannot live by wine alone, although we try! 

Looking through recommendations, we settled upon Locanda en Canubi for lunch, a beautiful restaurant on the side of a hill overlooking vineyards. The views in this part of Italy are spectacular.

The amuse bouche was a macaron filled with gorgonzola dolce (no words!)

 

Lamb with crispy potato

Our next visit was to Produttori Barbaresco, a cooperative producing Barbaresco wines. Grown in four municipalities, Barbaresco, Neive, Treiso and San Rocco, on about 800 hectares cultivated with Nebbiolo. The saying goes, “Just one grape: Nebbiolo. Just one wine: Barbaresco. Excellence in simplicity.”  Located in the town of Barbaresco, we toured the wine museum and shopped the pop-up cheese and farmers market in town.

Our final winery visit was to Cascina Sciulun Franco Conterno winery. There are several Conterno wineries in this area; this one is unique. A small family winery and agriturismo. We did the bubbles to Barolo tasting and were not disappointed. We loved how each wine depended on the area it was grown in for its complexity. The same grape, but the differences in the vintage were distinctive given where they are grown.

On our last day in La Morra, we had reservations at a lovelyrestaurant, again perched over vineyards. We arrived and then realized that a Ferrari club was also dining at the restaurant. A great way to end our days of wine and food here in the Langhe.

Amuse bouche

Braised short rib

Zucchini flan

Plin, a distinctive dish in this part of Italy, tiny, thin ravioli

Butter

Brulee dessert

I highly recommend the Langhe for a visit; you'll need at least 4 days but you could occupy yourself for a week without any problem.  We did 1-2 wine tastings per day and that worked well with lunch between each tasting.  There are around 16 Michelin-starred restaurants in this area as well as many well-regarded family-style restaurants.  You won't be hungry or thirsty here!  Ciao for now.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bolgheri and Super Tuscans

The Tuscan coast is revered for its Super Tuscan wines, made in the Bordeaux Style. Think of these wines as Italian terroir growing and making wine with French-style grapes.  There are lots of variations on the theme, some using Sangiovese along with the French grapes.  The name Super Tuscan was coined by wine critic Robert Parker, who helped these wines become famous. Many of these wineries did not start making these wines until the late 1960’s, when the Marquese della Rocchetta releasing his Cabernet blend Sassicaia.  The winemakers in this area were tired of the Italian rules for specific wines, and released the blended wines as a Vino di Tavola or table wine.  The quality and popularity of these wines forced the Italian government to label these wines as IGT,  translated to mean Typical Geographic Indication. A Super Tuscan is often the signature of the wine producer;  wines that sometimes are difficult to find outside the latest vintage - or even to get a taste of. For this reason, the Super Tuscans (just like Brunellos, Barbaresco and Barolos)  are collectible wines and are in wine cellars around the world. 

A visit to Bolgheri is a must for wine lovers.  This part of Tuscany is dotted with small towns and seaside marinas. For this trip, we were based in Santa Cecilia on the Mediterranean, at a small apartment hotel. 

Our first stop was at Osteria del Tasso for lunch before heading to our first wine tasting.  This is an Osteria is an Antinori property, and delightful. The menu is geared towards pairing their wines with your meal.  It was a spectacular day, and the outdoor dining venue was special. 

 

Our first wine tasting was at Ornellaia, known for its Super Tuscans.  Blending cabernet sauvignon with cabernet franc, Merlot or Petit Verdot there are wines for every palate and price point.  Ornellaia is part of the Frescobaldi wine estates.  We were taken to the vineyards, and then to their art museum, which is worth the trip.  

The Vendemmia d’Artista project, artwork commissioned by Orenllaia was created by internationally renowned artists who sought inspiration in the wines. Although there are many wines under this label, we tasted Le Volte, Le Serre Nuove, Ornellaia DOC Superiore and Grappa.  After visiting this beautiful estate, we enjoyed a lovely sunset over the marina back in Santa Ceclia. 

Our next day began with a drive to Tua Rita, where they make one of my favorite wines, Giusto di Notri.  We had requested a wine pairing lunch, but first a drive to the vineyards, and a walk through the cellars.  The estate is beautiful, and the room for our pairing was exceptional.  We began with a white wine and proceeded through the reds, each with a different blend of grapes to showcase how the winemaker gets the best out of each blend. 

Our next stop was Grattamacco, after a long windy drive, we arrived over some back roads.  If you are interested in tasting here, make sure to provide ample time to get there since it’s off the beaten path.  Grattamacco depends on the clay soil for the minerality of its wines.  Its Vermentino is one of the best I’ve tasted in the area, crisp with a nice acidity.  Since this is a Super Tuscan area, their red wines are notable for their depth of flavor and what they call the natural transformation of the wine.  This means that the fruit speaks for itself without any intervention by the winemaker.  Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore contains  65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese and garners ratings in the high 90’s.  L’Alberello is another red grown in a method to combat the heat and drought conditions that can occur with the change in climate.  It is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc; the grapes are harvested by hand at the same time, and fermentation takes place immediately.  This wine is also rated in the high 90’s. The Bolgheri Rosso is an interesting table wine incorporating 30% Cabernet Sauvignon,30% Merlot,25% Cabernet Franc,10% Sangiovese, and 5% Petit Verdot.  The visit included a visit to the cellars and a bit of a tour of the small property.  The view from this vineyard is spectacular, and you appreciate the salt air and wind that influence the grapes in this region.  

Wine tastings in Italy are different from those in the US.  You must make an advance reservation; most of the time the cost is non-refundable.  Each of these wineries was worth the trip, and I would highly recommend all of them for outstanding Super Tuscan tastings. All of the wineries we visited were happy to ship cases home to the US for a price.  Next up, the Three B's: Barolo, Barbera and Barbaresco.  

Falling in Love with Castello di Montalero

It happens slowly, the drive through the gates at Montalero, up the driveway to the Castello. Gorgeous trees line the drive and wrap you in their magic.

We are greeted by Tinkie, the best-behaved Jack Russel terrier I’ve ever met. Not a yap out of this pooch, only scratching at your room door in the night to let you know he wants a slumber party.

We are greeted by Charlie Watson and his dad, Chris, when we arrive. A warm welcome, an invitation to leave our bags, and see our rooms before a light lunch with our other sojourners. Opening the door of our suite, we feel at home. A lovely room, painstakingly restored, with all the mod-cons of home.

The drawing room

Upon freshening up, we traipse downstairs to the terrace, where our group for the 5 days is assembled. One couple from Scotland, a family of 4 from Detroit and two long-time girlfriends from Long Island. Lunch is served with local wines, a frizzante white, and a Barbera red. After lunch, a rest and a little exploration of the gorgeous grounds.

First night a spumante

Where there's wine, there are always nibbles

7:45 or thereabouts, it is cocktail time, and Charlie is ready with his special concoction. Again, we are on the terrace, the weather could not be more perfect for an evening of conversation, food, and drink. Charlie tells us more about our week, as we sip on the local wines and enjoy lovingly prepared food from Christian’s kitchen downstairs, where our cooking classes will be held. There are 12 of us, so that will necessitate splitting the group into two: Team Barbera and Team Nebbiolo.

Suppli

Vegetable lasagna

Rabbit with potatoes

Sunday dawns with bright sunlight and clear skies; if you have not been to the Monferrato area, you see vineyards for miles, with snowcapped Alps in the background. A leisurely continental breakfast is served on the terrace with the sounds of the local church bells. Our plan today is Sunday lunch at an old friend of Charlie’s dad. First stop is the village of Moncalvo, with views and a lovely town square where we visit the hardware store and some local shops. The village begins to fill up as we are leaving. Sundays are for lunch, and that is where we head next. 

This is the Italian version of a VFW hall

A seven-course starter menu leaves us all stuffed, and then the primi hits, then the secondi and then the dolce. 4 hours later we are rolled back in the vans to take us back to the Castello. While we were gone the locals had a festival, saluting their Saint who saved the village.

On Monday, our group of 8 started with a cooking class with Chef Bepe Sardi, a 70-plus-year-old bundle of energy and the self-proclaimed king of risotto. We made an onion frittata, asparagus-filled ravioli, Baccala with an anchovy sauce (don’t knock it till you’ve tried it), and a hazelnut chocolate torte with zabaglione. While some of us did the cooking class, the others went to the local market, a goat farm and wine tasting. 

Bepe is known as the King of risotto

By the time they got back, we were serving their lunch, with appropriate wines, of course. After lunch, it was our turn to head to the goat farm and winery for a taste of the local products. That night after aperitivo, Bepe gave us a lesson in risotto making using beets.

Tuesday, our group visited a local market in Casale, returning for lunch that had been prepared by the other group. After a rest, we head to the kitchen for our vegetarian cooking class with Chef Valeria Degiovanni. Since it’s spring, we are preparing asparagus and zucchini in a flan (more like a soufflé), eggplant parmigiano, and strawberry tiramisu. While we are cooking, Team Nebbiolo is off to a wine tasting.

Asparagus flan ready for the oven

Wednesday is our last day here, as we have wine to taste in Barolo. For those interested, there is a morning Yoga class. Our cooking class is pizza and focaccia with chef Carla Gori, who is a superstar when it comes to baking. We learned a lot about hydration and made our own pizzas for lunch. After that, we were packed into our car and headed off to Canelli for wine tasting at Villa Giada.

My husband enjoyed every bit of the adventure, and he’s not a cook. We had a great time meeting the other students and enjoyed interacting with the phenomenal staff. The Castello itself is magical; beautifully decorated rooms, with comfortable places to sit and enjoy quiet time. The terrace was a beautiful place to sit and enjoy an aperitif or a meal.

If you are interested in coming to the Castello, I highly recommend visiting their website and putting down a deposit. The best part is that they will pick you up in Milan and drop you back at the airport. As Charlie said, your only job is to get dressed in the morning and enjoy all the Castello has to offer. Ciao for now.