At Home in Spello

 

After 2 weeks on the road in Sicily and Bologna, my pal Phillis Carey and I drove into Spello and our first stop had to be Enoteca Properzio for lunch.

Casual Chef tasting Etrusco 

a taste of Umbria

Can't have salumi without Pecorino

We arrived and found that Chef Marco Gubiotti was opening a gelateria next door to the enoteca, and we were ready....we were told they were opening in 10 minutes, so we hiked up the hill to our apartment and unpacked, headed back down the hill to the gelateria and sampled.  Marco is a Starred Michelin chef who owns a gastronomia in neighboring Foligno.  He does private cooking classes at the enoteca, and opened Amendola 2 years ago next to the gastronomia, and they have opened in Spello, selling artiginal gelato. 

Chef Marco, opening day

Lots of flavors

What a fantastic addition to Spello!  People were lined up out the door to get a taste.  There are small tables outside, and soon to come umbrellas for the summertime.  I know this will be a huge success. 
After sampling gelato, we went back to the enoteca, and relaxed.  That means more wine to taste! 
Our next adventure was a trip to Trevi for lunch at La Cucina San Pietro in San Pettine where they specialize in truffles that are found on their land. 

Articoke starter with speck, truffles and fonduta

Crostone with black truffle and salami

Ricotta ravioli with sweet pea puree and truffles

Strangozzi with truffle, tomato and burrata

Chocolate cake for dessert

Beautiful property on a beautiful day

There is a tiny church on the property as well

We rolled out of there and headed back to Spello for a little rest.  It was Good Friday and there were some visitors in the town, but the hordes were coming.  All through the town there were beautifully depicted stations of the cross.  (These are not in order)

Wandering the streets of Spello is always interesting, finding frescoes and artwork and beautiful flower displays are part of the charm of this hill town, and why I love it here. 

Easter procession in Spello

On Saturday we took it easy, both of us had to pack, since Phillis was returning to the states and I was going to spend the night at the airport and pick up Dr. C. on Monday morning.  But, our eating wasn't done yet, on Sunday we had a reservation at another one of my favorite restaurants in the area, L'Alchimista.  Since it was Easter, I knew there would be crowds; driving up the streets of Spello, it was like parting the Red Sea with all the people who were here. 

Artichoke souffle

Lamb 3 ways

Roasted Veg

Roasted pigeon 3 ways

Colomba, traditional Easter bread

Tiramisu

Deep cappuccino (my favorite dessert of all time)

After a double espresso, Phillis and I were on the road to the Rome airport.  Dr. C. arrived on Monday and we have been settling in here visiting with friends and our family. 

I think he's happy

Ciao for now!  

Dining

Here in Italy, as in the rest of Europe, meals are shared with family and friends, and you don't eat; you dine.  Webster defines dining as partaking of a meal.  Here that means slowing down, enjoying the food, the company and your surroundings, whether it is a beautiful terrace, a small subterranean dining room, or your own eating space, meals and the conversation that is shared are meant to be savored.  Dining here is not a track meet, with loud music blaring in the background to get you out as fast as they can.  (yes, that's why some restaurants blare music, so they can turn over their tables faster) Don't believe it? Check this out.

On Monday after our tour at Arnaldo Caprai, we headed up to the top of the hill to the town of Montefalco and one of our favorite restaurants, L'Alchimista.  The Giro d'Italia would be coming through town on Tuesday and we figured this was a great day to come and sit in the piazza and enjoy the day with our London friends.  Our family here in Spello helped to put together the wine list for the restaurant, and we were in for a treat.

Located in the square, there is indoor and outdoor seating; on perfect days, you want an outdoor table

The square is all dressed up for the Giro (think Tour de France, Italian style)

We sat down at a lovely table under umbrellas, on the piazza.  As we were deciding to order, we sipped a lovely Rosato: before you turn up your nose, this is not your mamas rose, but Sangiovese grapes, and the flavor is fresh, light and refreshing.  I'm in love with it for an aperitivo.

 Deciding what to eat was difficult but we decided on a special homemade ravioli stuffed with pecorino and ricotta, topped with fava beans and oil.  As they say here, Spettacolare!

I decided on the fava souffle with artichoke sauce

Artichoke parmigiana

As the clouds turned darker we heard rumbles of thunder, and then came the rain.  We headed inside to finish our lunch.  To pair with our main courses, we decided on a Montefalco Rosso called Ziggurat from Lunelli.

Chicken stuffed with sausage--Mama Mia!

Described as a lasagna, this was really thin crepes, again, simple food, elevated

As we were eating, our friend said, I'm not leaving without having dessert.....who could argue with that?  Three of us had what they describe as their cappuccino and one had a chocolate and pear tart with cinnamon ice cream, again, Mama Mia. 

Creamy chocolate on the bottom, meringue pieces in the middle, and mascarpone creme on the top.  No words!

Chocolate and pear tart, cinnamon ice cream, and pastry cream

As the weather cleared, we rolled ourselves out of the restaurant, and down the hill to car.  We'd spent 2 1/2 hours at lunch and it was a joy to enjoy each and every bite, along with great conversation.  We did a bit of a walk about and then headed home.

Pink bicycles were everywhere in celebration of the Giro arriving on Tuesday.  The riders went from Foligno up the hill through Bevagna and into the square in Montefalco for this stage.

For over 17 years,  when we come to Montefalco, I take a photo of this garden, tended by an older gentleman, it is beautiful year round.

You never know what is behind a door, this small chapel is usually closed, but we were able to enter and see the amazing frescoes on the walls here.

Perfect days here in Italy include great meals, wine, and conversation. Our two days with our friends from the UK were exactly that.  So grateful to be here and enjoy the beauty that surrounds us.  Ciao for now.