Eating Our Way Through Rome

I will admit that I am not the best person to ask where to eat in Rome, since we only spend short periods of time here, but I rely on my friends who live here and the brilliant Elizabeth Minchilli who writes about her faves everywhere in Italy, but her home is here in Rome.  I have been to many restaurants that Elizabeth has recommended and she is spot on each time.  This week we have been to some old favorites of mine, and some new ones thanks to Elizabeth's recommendations.

OK, give me a break, I've been here 2 1/2 months and I needed a burger fix, and got the perfect cheeseburger at Eataly in Piazza della Republica.  I've been to both the one in the Piazza and the behemoth at Piramide station, this one is smaller, more intimate, not quite as crazy.  A delicious lunch accompanied by a Montefalco rosso and I was set.

Our second foray was a mistake.  Chef Christina Bowerman used to have a restaurant here in Prati called Romeo Chef and the Baker, but when we went to find it, it was now a beer restaurant---go figure, beer in Italy, it's taking off.  They had more than 20 beers on tap, and nice pizzas.  This was also a lesson, restaurants come and go, check before you wander out in the heat and humidity, you could be on a wild goose chase.

Our friend Rick Breco of Noi Salon recommended Babbette to me many years ago, and so I felt it was time for another visit.  This is a beautiful place off the craziness of Piazza del Popolo, with a French/Italian vibe.  Our amuse bouche was described as cream potato with truffle, I'd describe it as amazing.

Broccoli Veloute---basically broccoli, olive oil and a bit of fennel---good to the last drop

Paccheri with gorgonzola, spinach and pistachios---Mama Mia!

Taglietelle with Beef Ragu

Pasta with fresh tomatoes and basil

Yesterday after a long walk, and some shopping we ended up in the Jewish Ghetto at Piperno a recommendation from Elizabeth Minchilli's Eat Rome app.  Although there are many restaurants here in the Ghetto, this one is in a secluded tiny piazza, and we were seated outside, under umbrellas.  We were in for a treat, with white coated waiters in bow ties, and delicious food.

Carcioffi alla Giudia

The fried whole artichoke is a specialty at these restaurants, and we decided to give them a try.  They also excel at fried zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella, and anchovy.

Our main courses were pasta, because that's what we do here.  

Dr. C. opted for the ravioli with spinach and ricotta

The girls and I opted for the ravioli stuffed with veal.  

For dessert we had to try the famous Palle di Nonno (Grandpa's balls) Deep fried chocolate, ricotta and pistachios

Dr. C's face when he saw Palle de Nonno on the menu

As we walk through history here, we are putting in at least 4 miles per day, between shopping, touring and wandering.  People have asked me why we don't weigh 500 pounds, and it's because we are eating good, clean food and exercising.  We usually lose weight over here because we are walking so much.

After almost 5 days of non-stop sightseeing today we have nothing on our agenda, but that doesn't mean we have nothing on our plates....sorry I couldn't resist that.  We went out for our usual cappuccino and cornetto this morning, then around 1 p.m. headed to another restaurant in the neighborhood, Dal Toscano.  It is on the edge of the more touristy area, but we were the only Americans there, and were seated inside, enveloped in air conditioning (when it's 90+ degrees, you don't want to sit outside) and by our waiter who was attentive, but not overbearing.  We could have stayed there all afternoon it was so delightful.

Who knew fresh fried potato chips could be this good?  Top left potato croquette,fried artichokes, fried zucchini flower, zucchini, fried ricotta, and in the middle I'm still not sure, could be a cardoon.

Saltimboca, traditional Roman dish

Pappardelle with Ragu Toscano

 A little Super Tuscan

This desert doesn't look like much but we named it the second best after the deep Cappuccino at L'Alchimista, zabaglione with hot chocolate sauce, at the bottom was a tangerine sorbet, also delicious.

So ending our meal with espresso, we headed out into the heat, and back to the apartment we are renting here in Prati.  If you are coming to Rome and looking for an apartment to rent, our friend Roberto can fix you up with a beautiful apartment in a true neighborhood, rather than the touristy central historic district.  You can contact him at roma_antica@hotmail.com .  Tonight we are doing a nighttime tour of Rome, and I'm looking forward to taking my camera and enjoying the sights after dark. Ciao for now.

What's App?

When I open up my phone, I am amazed at what I can find with a swipe of my finger.  Although I am a tech dinosaur, I do love having a lot of information on a phone, so that when I'm looking for something I can usually get a great answer in a matter of seconds, or in my case minutes.  I'm grateful for the ability to find a restaurant, seat on an airplane, and figure out what the heck that vegetable is in the farmer's market and how do I cook it.  These are some of my favorite Apps in no given order.

The Specialty Produce App is a deep volume of information about fruits and vegetables, with photos, information about where and when they are grown, and some recipe and storage ideas.  It's awesome, and you can also "spot" produce when you are shopping, so others can see where a certain vegetable or fruit is available.  It's free.

Getting lost is a fact of life, and without Google maps where would we all be?  Stuck in the driveway.  I've used it everywhere:  in Europe, and all over the US, I'd be lost without it and that's no joke.  Free in the Google play store.

Since I travel so much keeping track of the weather is something I do a lot---OK, I'm really a geek when it comes to weather.  I sometimes gloat about our fabulous weather here in San Diego, but for the most part I'm checking out where I'm going so I can plan my packing.  Free.

How else would you know what your neighbor is having for breakfast if you weren't on Facebook.  I use this primarily to see what my kids/and their friends are doing, as well as my professional page to put up photos of food, and other information.  It's annoying at times, with the adverts and unwanted things in your feed, but for the most part, I use it to catch up.

I still don't understand it, but surprise, I've got followers, and I'm following people---how interesting!  Truth be told, if I post on my professional FB page, it goes to Twitter....incestuous.

Also not sure I understand this one either, but I put up shots of food, and other things---I have yet to figure it out, but it's there if I need it.

Getting news during the day, when I'm traveling, I depend on the AP, since it is just headlines and facts.  Free in the google play store.

I've found that Flight Stats is smarter than the airlines when it comes to posting delays and gate changes.  It's saved me miles of walking at O'Hare and Dulles.  Free.

Recently a flight was cancelled, and I was assigned a seat by the airline, this genius app will tell you whether it's a good seat or not, and has comments by travelers about the different planes and where to sit for the best experience, but as we all know flying is not fun anymore.

Worth every penny, if you are going to Italy, these apps are all you need.  Elizabeth Minchilli's recommendations are spot on, and the app is full of information, especially for first timers.

Late at night, coming home, it's nice to know you have a flashlight just in case you can't find the lock to put your key in.  I used this a lot in Italy, since the streets can be pretty dark. 

I love Uber, and have used it in Rome, New York City, and in Los Angeles.  It's clean and neat with no money changing hands, and no tipping to try and figure out.  The app is GPS based, and works amazingly well. 

Checking on the Euro when I'm Italy, this app let's me figure out how much something will cost before I buy.  Simple to use, containing all the worlds' currencies, it's awesome.  Free.

I use the Trip Advisor occasionally; I like that there are reviews from real people, and that I can compare hotels, and restaurants, and find things to do in different cities.  Free.

Last but not least, the My Gelato app---I haven't used it yet, but had to have it---it's free. 

I have more apps on my phone than I need, but I do love the instant gratification of being able to find things, get directions, as well as the weather and current news. 

Some Tips for Seeing Rome

Rome, the Eternal City: it's filled with art, history,and Italians!  To navigate this city well do your homework. Here are a few of my best tips, not necessarily in any order.

• Research what you want to see, then make a workable plan.  Rome can be exhausting, it's noisy, and chaotic, but it's worth all of that.  
• Hire private licensed guides for the big stuff.  This will save you time in line, and will also save you the headache of trying to figure out where you are and which way to go. All licensed guides have passed tests. they know their stuff, and they get front of the line privileges at the Colosseum, Vatican museums, and other historical places.  The groups are usually no more than 6 to 8 people and it is worth every penny. 

• The companies I've used have been www.contexttravel.com, and www.theromanguy.com.  Context is a bit more high end, giving you art historians at the Vatican museums, and Archaeologists at the Colosseum---well worth the money.  The Roman guy hires licensed guides as well, and all are passionate about their subjects.
• Don't plan too much in one day if you don't have to. Remember that eating here is also something that needs to be savored just like the sights.  Maybe do a tour in the morning, lunch, a rest period (be Italian for goodness sake) and then an evening tour/or walk-about if time is short.  If you can plan one tour per day, that's the best of all worlds, because there are so many places to walk and experience.

• Download apps and find great blogs.  My favorite is www.elizabethminchilli.com  Elizabeth is an author, married to an Italian, and her blog has lots of great info, but for the best info, download her app Eat Rome.  (If you are going to Florence and Venice she has done those apps as well---can't wait for her book Eat Rome)  Every restaurant recommendation has been spot on.
• Download Viber to your smart phone to keep in touch with home.  Free text, and phone calls from WIFI
• I like to rent a short term apartment while I'm here.  Rental agencies abound, as well as www.homeaway.com, www.airbnb.com, and www.flipkey.com.  The benefits?  You can spread out, you have a place to come back to and have a rest, and your are living with the locals.  

• Download the Uber app for your smart phone.  The cars are clean, the drivers are courteous and they can cost less than taking a cab, plus you don't have to worry about having enough cash on hand; it's all done electronically and NO TIPS.  
• Use public transportation if it's close.  The Metro here is a great deal and easy to navigate;        3 Euro for an all day pass.  It goes to a lot of attractions: the Colosseum, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain (which is covered in scaffolding right now), Piazza del Popolo, St. Peter's, and Eataly. 

• OK, Americani, this is how the rest of the world sees us:  overweight, wearing shorts and tank tops into sacred places, baseball caps, sneakers, no style, and arguing with shop keepers and wait staff because they don't speak YOUR language---it's THEIR country, make an effort. A simple buon giorno,buona sera, and Grazie, are all appreciated.  You are a guest here, act like one. 
• What to pack:  If you are planning to have dinner with the Pope or Prime Minister then by all means pack that suit or cocktail attire.  Pack light, you will be buying things to take home, and that suitcase will get heavier and heavier as your trip goes on. For the most part, Italians dress casually, when they are outside of work, but they have style, so no running shoes at dinner, but find some comfortable walking shoes (Ecco, Munro, Mephisto, Dansko, Clarks, Aldo) and definitely pack them. Pick a neutral wardrobe color, black/grey/beige, and then accent with color--maybe a gorgeous silk scarf, cashmere sweater, or Murano glass necklace.   Cobblestones are hard on the knees/hips/and feet so be careful and watch your step---last year I broke my leg on uneven pavement, walked around on it for 2 weeks, went home and was put into a boot till I left to come back to Italy.  Learn from my mistakes. 
• I tell people that the treasure of Italy isn't the art, history, culture, food, olive oil or wine, it's the people.  Make an effort to know them, and you'll find that treasure.  Buona Notte from Rome.