Ballymaloe

 Ballymaloe is famous the world over, since its owners have been stars in the Irish culinary world, putting this little part of Ireland on the map so to speak with their cooking and country house. In 1948 Myrtle and Ivan Allen bought the farm and several years on, Myrtle opened it as a restaurant, serving traditional Irish food.  The property has grown to include a cafe, gift shop, event venue, bed and breakfast and a cookery school off site.  I have always wanted to come here, to experience it, since many friends have studied cooking here, and have raved about it.

It is definitely off the beaten track, and at times I wasn't sure if the GPS was directing us in the right way, but get there we did, and were welcomed to the Top Room, a lovely room at the top of the house (hence the name) with a view over the front court yard.

Our room is the top right corner

To the right down an incline is the swimming pool, at 50 degrees F, it was not in use

When we arrived in the late afternoon, we were hungry, and decided to try our luck at the little cafe at the back of the gift shop.  We settled for an apple streusel cake, and two pots of tea.  This is a tiny little cafe and they serve lunch and baked goods with great tea.

 The House makes reservations for your dinner on site, even if you aren't planning to eat there, they seem very loose about that, and we opted to try dinner in our first night.

White vegetable soup with parsley cream

From the hors d'oeuvres table

Roast Guinea Fowl

Roast John Dory

The food was quite good, and the service was well done.  Our problem has been that these 7 course meals are more than we need to eat, so the following night we asked if we might just have soup and salad, which they were happy to serve us.    The property at Ballymaloe is beautiful, with lawns, and a walled garden, along with wisteria covering the manor house. 

    

Entrance to the walled garden

Beautiful tulips

Breakfast was a feast for the eyes as well as the soul.  I'm becoming addicted to Irish butter, and tea.  

The Dining Room

 Homemade Bread

 Scones (another addiction)

 Brown bread

Oh butter, how do I love you, let me count the ways.

 This guy sat in the corner as we ate

 Crepes with lemon and sugar

Jack McCarthy sausages and scrambled eggs 

We left Ballymaloe with some very nice memories, and enjoyed the stay here immensely. It is nice to know that the family continues to run the property and that it continues to bring back guests every year.  One family staying there this weekend was celebrating the 50th anniversary of their parents, and they had been bringing their children there  every year  for holidays.    

Cashel and Kinsale

Dr. C. and I picked up a rental car on the outskirts of Dublin, and headed west to Cashel our first stop on this road trip.  Famous for the Rock of Cashel, we arrived in town hungry and tired, after a stop in the town of Mountmellick where my Fitzpatrick ancestors are from.  Unfortunately, it's a tiny town, and we didn't find any cemeteries there to roam about in, so we quickly got back on the motorway, and headed farther west.
The Rock is a limestone outcropping that is purported to be where St. Patrick converted the King of Munster in the 5th century.  In the 1100's the church, and round tower were built, and the rock has been the sight of battles.  In the mid 1700's the Anglican priest who presided over the town, removed the roof of the cathedral (to avoid taxation) and the church has been a ruin ever since.

Cormac's Chapel

This piece of the cathedral was blown off during a strong wind

Abandoned Abbey at the bottom of the hill

The grave yard on the Rock, still used today

t

Irish Round Tower

from inside the cathedral

As you can tell by the sky, the weather has been cold and grey since we've been here

After checking out of our hotel, we headed to the Cork area, and Ballymaloe House.  Known the world over for its cooking school and hospitality, this is a place in the middle of nowhere.  When we put it into the GPS we were wondering where it was taking us, down country roads, and across fields.  Ballymaloe will have its own post later on, but today we headed to Kinsale, south of Cork, a beautiful fishing village, probably known best as the place where the Lusitania survivors and dead were taken when the ship torpedoed off the coast.  We did a a walking tour of the village, and waterfront then headed to Charles Fort, the old English fort on the peninsula for some spectacular views.  

Quiet harbor

Boat races on a Saturday

After a nice walk about town, we decided it was time for some lunch.  There are lots of pubs, and restaurants in Kinsale, and we chose a fish place.  I had to have fish and chips, since, that's what you do here.  

Dr. C. chose the seafood chowder

After a pot of strong tea, which I'm beginning to become addicted to, we headed off to Charles Fort for some more walk-about.  Charles Fort was an English Fort, specifically to protect the commerce coming in and out of Kinsale.  Built in the 1600's it was abandoned when Ireland won its independence in the 1920's.  

 The Lusitania sank 10 miles from the shore

The views from the fort are spectacular.  The fort is in disrepair since the Irish Civil War when it was destroyed. Still it is interesting from a historical and architectural perspective, since it is one of the only remaining star shaped forts in Europe.  

Tomorrow we head north to County Galway with a stop at Bunratty Castle on our way.  Driving on the left has taken a bit of getting used to, since I'm dyslexic, it's doubly confusing, but we are enjoying this inviting and beautiful part of Europe.