The Roots Tour

Today a friend from Assisi and I took to the road; it was miserable and rainy in Assisi when I picked her up, but she had checked the weather and said the weather to the North was going to be better, so we opted to go to Gubbio, where my grandparents were born, and where there is one of my favorite restaurants ever, Il Panaro.  The weather held, and we had a great drive, and then stopped at Il Panaro, which looks like a dive bar in the middle of nowhere. 

My cousins from Gubbio had taken Dr. C. and I there years ago, and said it was typical Umbrian food with the food coming from the farm of the owner.  Everything I have ever had there has been exceptional.  Today we stared with a farro minestrone, and the I had gnocchi with rabbit ragu and my friend Dee had tagliatelle with goose ragu---we walked out like two sausages, stuffed and happy.  

gnochhi with rabbit ragu

tagliatelle with goose ragu

We traveled on to Gubbio and walked around the town, I am still in a rehab mode with my left leg, so was not up for walking up Mt. Ignino, but we did drive up to see the views and the basilica. 

Gubbio still retains its medieval character; with cobbled streets, and beautiful vistas.  Its most famous visitor was St. Francis who came to help the townsfolk, when there was a wolf terrorizing the town. St. Francis talked with the wolf, they shook hands and the wolf was never seen again in Gubbio.  

 Gubbio has no train station so there are not a lot of tourists here, except during the Festa dei cieri May 15 when the town swells to over 100,000 people cramming the streets and alleyways.  It’s like a mosh pit at a rock concert. 

We got a little off the beaten track, and we ended up in Padule, which is actually the little burg that my nonni were born in. We went by the house that my grandmother was born in and it was gone, replaced by a very modern home on the property---I told my kids I didn’t take a photo since I prefer to remember it as it was when I first saw it 15 years ago.  
Here are a few more snaps from our day.

Like any hill town there is a lot of climbing to be done

Not everything here is "un-touristy"

Each hilltown has its own ceramic or majoliche

And you wondered where all the shoemakers went--as we passed by you could hear "tap, tap, tap"--established in 1341

 

Wishing you a bella giornata from Spello.

Field Trip

This morning I decided to visit a local cantina owned by the Ferrari family---yes, THOSE Ferraris. With a card from Roberto at Enoteca Properzio, I was set, but what I didn’t realize was that I would be late. 

Getting lost here on the back roads, is sport for me, and unfortunately, I got there when they were closing, but the ladies in the cantina let me take some photos and the ride itself was pure joy.  Nothing but vineyards, and olive groves as far as the eye could see.  

 

Spello from the top of Cantalupo

Indications are that there will be a bumper crop of olives

Vineyards

 

Assisi

 

Santa Maria di Angeli

Cantina Castelbuono was designed by Arnaldo Pomodoro, it is called The Carapace, it is the first sculpture in the world in which people live and work simultaneously. 

The Carapace

Beautiful artwork

 

On the floor

Since the Carapace is a work of art, you will see all kinds of sculptures as you drive up to the main building. And the views of the surrounding area are spectacular. 

Here they grow the indigenous grapes of Umbria; Sagrantino and Rosso di Montefalco.Until 25 years ago Sagrantino was used as a sacramental wine or passito, then a wine maker decided to age it and the rest is history—Sagrantino is getting lots of great press since it is becoming a more recognized vintage throughout the world. Full bodied with lots of tannin it takes a special winemaker to turn these grapes into the special wine that is Sagrantino di Montefalco. 

I am living in a tiny apartment and will move into a larger one next door, when friends come to visit.  Dr. C. will join me the beginning of October, and we will do some touring to places we haven’t been to in Italia, Cinque Terre, Portofino, Genoa, and Lucca.  I am not attending school this time around, finding that I am learning a lot more listening to the conversations here at the Enoteca. Until my next adventure, I bid you a buona serata from Spello. 

Nighttime in the garden at Enoteca Properzio

    

Reasons to Love the Heartland

I began my trip in Indianapolis, picking up my rental car; an upgrade from the usual "salesman's car" that I'm usually stuck with, it's a Toyota 4-Runner, but I have dubbed it the Party-mobile since this button is on the dashboard.

This doesn't really come in handy when you are listening to NPR.

I headed to Cincinnati from Indy, and spent the last 5 days there, three nights of teaching, and a bit of rest.  People often ask me why I will fly to the middle of the country and teach, but it's really grabbed my heart for years; the students are great, the staff at the cooking schools are second to none, and I have a good time.  I also get to know what people are cooking in kitchens that aren't in New York or California, since many people tend to think that there are only two places that people cook. 

So here are a few things I love about Cincinnati

With gas prices in San Diego hovering around the $4.00 mark, the prices in Cincinnati made filling up the Party Mobile a bit easier.

Jungle Jim's---this food emporium is almost indescribable---a lot of fun, and the selection here is mind boggling.  I counted at least 5 aisles of hot sauce--who knew?

Real weather!  Not just a sprinkle, but torrential downpours complete with rolling thunder, and lightning---keeps you awake at night, too!

Cute icons!  This little guy greets me when I get off the freeway to head to the cooking school at CooksWares.

A blast from my past; having grown up in New England, Dunkin' is the only coffee and donut combination for me.  Fortunately, they don't have them in San Diego, otherwise, I'd weight 6 zillion pounds!

A vibrant downtown.  Cincinnati has a LOT to offer, and their downtown is having a resurgence.  These were some views from a friends' absolutely spectacular deck.

Gorgeous night to eat out on the deck.  Can't imagine I'd spend much time indoors with this gorgeous retreat outside my door.

The last reason I love Cincinnati is wonderful friends --- my girl friends here are the best, and they introduced me to this lovely woman that last time I was here; if you don't know Marilyn Harris, she is a treasure and I was fortunate to spend an evening with she and her husband while I was here, in the company of some special women.  Marilyn has a long history with the food business here in Cincinnati, with a varied career, and a radio show that is so much fun to listen to.  Click here to hear this week's show.  Although I miss home when I'm on the road, I'm blessed with friends and experiences I wouldn't trade for anything.  Thanks for the great week Cincinnati, I'll see you in the new year. 

Jammin'

Specialty Produce's stone fruit is coming in quickly, and I was so lucky to get a some beautiful peaches to use for jam before I left for the East Coast.  If you haven't made jam before, it's simple, and a great way to make some gifts for later in the year.  If you can follow directions, you can make jam.  The most labor intensive part is peeling the peaches (a serrated peeler is great for this) and then chopping them for the jam.  

You will need 8 cups of peeled, pitted and chopped stone fruit. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons lemon or lime juice to the fruit.

Bring a large canning pot filled with water to a boil.  I don't have one, so I use a pasta pentola and it works great.  Wash the jars, lids and rings in hot water and dry thoroughly. 
Add one box of pectin, and bring to a rolling boil in a heavy bottomed saucepan.  Boil for 1 minute.
Add 5 cups of sugar (if you decide to do a low sugar or freezer jam, follow the directions on the pectin package)
Bring the jam back to a boil, and boil for 2 minutes.  Remove from the heat, ladle into sterilized jars,

This funnel from Progressive, is perfect for ladling into the jars. Leave about 1/2-inch of space in the jar for expansion.  Place the lids on top and lightly twist on the ring (don't tighten all the way)  Using tongs, place into the boiling water bath.

Time the water bath for 10 minutes, after it returns to a boil.  At the end of the time, remove the jars from the water bath---the lid should flatten once it's taken out of the bath---they tend to make a nice popping sound.  That means they are safely sealed.  Twist the ring tightly, and dry off the jars.  Label and store in a cool, dry place for up to 2 years. These went fast, Dr. C. took some in to work, and I'm saving a few for some special friends.

I'm on the East Coast helping to babysit our granddaughter, so I'll post as I have time.  Wishing you a great day from Connecticut. 

My Left Foot and True Confessions

As you can see by the photo, my left leg is in a boot, that's because when I was walking home one night in Spello I landed hard on my lefty off a cobblestone.  I was positive it was just a bad sprain, and did the RICE treatment, rest, ice, compression, elevation, and although it was painful I kept on walking. 
When I got home it was still pretty swollen, and sore, so when the Doc X-Rayed it, I'd broken my fibula, that thin leg bone, and I'd been walking on it for 2 weeks!
The good news is, it's been healing on its own, no thanks to me and my knuckle-headed-ness (walking in Rome for 2 days, and walking up and down hills in Spello) and it's actually feeling better being in the boot.  
I keep saying, "color me blond" but that wouldn't even cover how silly I feel for not having gone to the Dr. when my Italian family kept saying they would take me. 
Re-entry has been hard, I miss Spello a lot, and I miss the simple life, simple apartment, our friends and family there, but I'm happy to be home with Dr. C.  Everywhere I look there is something that needs to be done, and one of them is my next book, which I've been working on non-stop this summer, and into the time I've been home.  I'll write more as time allows this summer, till then, enjoy your weekend.