Adventures in Umbria

 Dr. C. and I spent 6 weeks in Spello this fall, and had some lovely adventures.  On my birthday we went to one of my favorite restaurants in Montefalco, and then had the privilege of going to visit the Tili Vineyard for a wine tasting and chat with Anna Laura and Maria Palma Tili.  I can't think of a better way to have spent the day.  Our family at Enoteca Properzio arranged the wine tasting, which took place at the top of the hill outside of Spello.  Known for its beautifully crafted organic wines, Tili also presses its olives for olive oil, which was delicious.  Over 20 years ago, we first tasted their Sacreterre, and fell in love with its complexity and flavor.  

L-R: Anna Laura, Maria Palma, Marco, Pietro

Situated halfway up Mount Subasio, the sacred mountain of St. Francis, the views over the valley are spectacular.   

A new tasting room has opened with beautiful view of the valley

When we arrived, they were crushing the Sangiovese grapes for their famous Tili Rosso, one of my favorites

All of my favorite wines are in one place; what could be better?  If you haven't tasted Grecchetto, an indigenous white grape to Umbria, you need to try this one.  It is superb.  

We tasted wines, along with cheese, salumi and bread from the region.  Pairing the products of the region with the wines is the ultimate marriage.  The Italians consider wine to be food, and so it should complement whatever you are serving.  We ended our day with this beautiful sunset over the valley and promises to return next year.  

Grazie Tili Vini, and Enoteca Properzio for the invitation.  It was a magical day.  

Oggi in Spello

Every meal begins with a glass of wine.  The wines here are meant to be drunk with food; they actually change as you pair them with the foods.  That's the difference with Italian and other European wines, there is no manipulation of the agriculture to make the same wine over and over each year. 

Grechetto is an ancient grape that is grown here in Umbria, and the Tili vineyard makes some of the most outstanding wines on the planet.  You won't find them in the US, they don't make enough to export. 

Pair the local wine with truffle pasta, and you have something very special. The pasta is rolled in the tartufo and then cooked quickly, and tossed with local extra virgin olive oil. 

Bruschette are little bits of bread, spread with (clockwise) white truffle, black truffle, arugula, and sundried tomato (in the middle).  Bruschette can also be toasted bread with extra virgin olive oil and a bit of salt. 

Called the Mediterranean salad, it is oil poached tuna, with tomatoes, capers, fresh mozzarella, and lamb's ears' lettuce.  This is tossed with local extra virgin olive oil and traditionally made aged balsamic vinegar.

Salumi!  Cured meats from Norcia ( where Italian butchers have trained for centuries) This is some of the best you will ever eat. 

Although it was warm, the day turned cold rather quickly in the afternoon, making it a very slow day.  

But, you are always welcome at Enoteca Properzio!

Dinner tonight, was pasta al pomodoro--simple, but scrumptious.  (I'm not cooking, either!)

Carpaccio of Chianina beef with local extra virgin olive oil, and shavings of Pecorino Grand Reserva.

In order to eat all this food and drink all this wine, I am walking everywhere! 

I am fascinated by the rock walls, and the arches. 

And, by this beautiful church next door to the enoteca.  It houses some beautiful examples of Pinturicchio, and that is one reason that people come here (other than to come to the enoteca) to see the frescoes. 
Not sure what tomorrow will bring, other than the rain, but I know it will be a great day here in Spello.  Buona notte!