Visiting Paolo Bea Winery

Among wine lovers, Paola Bea winery is talked about in hushed tones;  an all-natural, organic, biodynamic winery outside of Montefalco the heart of the Umbrian wine-growing region. Arriving in Montefalco in the 15th century, the Bea family has been farming organically and biodynamically since then.  

Bea is famous worldwide for its small production of indigenous Umbrian wines: Trebbiano Spoletino, Sagrantino and Grechetto. Each bottle is numbered, and the labels are handwritten to explain the processing of the vintage.  

Securing a tour is considered an honor (arranged by the Angelini family at Enoteca Properzio), and we definitely felt special getting a tour with Paolo's son Giampiero.  We arrived at the winery at 10 a.m. and were taken into the room where they were sorting and drying the grapes for the passito (or dessert wine) 100% Sagrantino, the indigenous grapes of Umbria. The smell is intoxicating.  The grapes are dried to a raisin-like state in this open air room, then hand pressed and allowed to ferment before they are aged in steel tanks.

 

                    Giampiero was joined by his mother and father (Paolo) in the drying room.  

All of the grapes are picked and sorted by hand.  Each day Giampiero goes to the vineyard and selects the grapes to be picked that day.  

After meeting his mother and father, Giampiero took us to the aging rooms.  The aromas here were remarkable; sweet, musty, and acidic, comingled in a beautiful room filled with Slovenian oak barrels. 

 

After a small taste, we were taken outside 

The red grapes are brought to the winery, crushed and then allowed to ferment covered for several days.  Then they are put into steel tanks.  

A short drive to the Pigliaro vineyard, and we are in the midst of the Sagrantino harvest.  All picked by hand, and then transported to the winery for production.  

The hills of Montefalco

Back at the winery, we tour the public tasting room, and then settle into the original tasting room below the family quarters to taste the wines.  

Giampiero Bea has been a founding member of the Vini Veri Consortium 

Capturing the essence, and color of the famous Arboreus 

Accompanied by local cured meats, and cheeses, our wine tasting was an education in the complexities, flavor and aromas of these beautiful, carefully crafted wines.  When describing the fermentation, and aging processes, again and again we heard the phrase, piano, piano, which I remember my Nonna saying to me, meaning easy, easy---or wait and see.  This type of wine making depends on the winemakers' philosophy and techniques, as well as their willingness to take risks and use grapes that we might not otherwise think about.  I cheer on these risk takers, since their livelihoods depend on their ability to blend and age the perfect pour.  Small vineyards like Bea dot the hillsides of every region in Italy, and are not to be missed.  

  

Giampiero Bea's Trebbiano Spoletino white wine is a new label for the Bea winery, the grapes stay on the skin for a month after the pressing.  

And, of course, no organic farm would be complete without an olive grove, and the oil here is spectacular.  Bright golden green, with hints of grass and mineral when poured over toasted bread or drizzled over fresh pasta with black truffles, Umbrian olive oil will brighten any dish.  .  

With Covid still an issue for travel, and visiting, it's always a good idea to make a reservation for a tasting wherever you go in Italy.  Wine tasting in Italy is a lovely day spent in the company of people who are passionate about what they do and their passion is shown in the products that they serve.  Grateful to have had this experience at Bea.  Ciao for now. 

Adventures in Umbria

 Dr. C. and I spent 6 weeks in Spello this fall, and had some lovely adventures.  On my birthday we went to one of my favorite restaurants in Montefalco, and then had the privilege of going to visit the Tili Vineyard for a wine tasting and chat with Anna Laura and Maria Palma Tili.  I can't think of a better way to have spent the day.  Our family at Enoteca Properzio arranged the wine tasting, which took place at the top of the hill outside of Spello.  Known for its beautifully crafted organic wines, Tili also presses its olives for olive oil, which was delicious.  Over 20 years ago, we first tasted their Sacreterre, and fell in love with its complexity and flavor.  

L-R: Anna Laura, Maria Palma, Marco, Pietro

Situated halfway up Mount Subasio, the sacred mountain of St. Francis, the views over the valley are spectacular.   

A new tasting room has opened with beautiful view of the valley

When we arrived, they were crushing the Sangiovese grapes for their famous Tili Rosso, one of my favorites

All of my favorite wines are in one place; what could be better?  If you haven't tasted Grecchetto, an indigenous white grape to Umbria, you need to try this one.  It is superb.  

We tasted wines, along with cheese, salumi and bread from the region.  Pairing the products of the region with the wines is the ultimate marriage.  The Italians consider wine to be food, and so it should complement whatever you are serving.  We ended our day with this beautiful sunset over the valley and promises to return next year.  

Grazie Tili Vini, and Enoteca Properzio for the invitation.  It was a magical day.