Searching for Our Laundry

Two weeks ago, Dr. C. and I left Bormio in the Alfa and drove back to Lake Garda to drop it off. About the time we were unloading the Alfa I remembered that we'd left our laundry at the hotel in Bormio.  After a few frustrating e-mails with the hotel, and no help from FEDEX, we decided to take the weekend, drive up to Tirano, board the UNESCO World Heritage Bernina Express train to St. Moritz, and then head to Bormio to retrieve our laundry.  The Stelvio Pass still awaits us, and this time we're in the Audi, so at least there are seat belts!

The Bernina Express is a railway that goes from Tirano to Davos or Chur, or you can opt to get off at any of the places in between.  Day-trippers tend to get off in St. Moritz, and then head back to Tirano.  The track is an amazing piece of engineering, and the scenery is spectacular.

The cars on the train have huge windows, giving you ample room to take photos and if you are so inclined, during nicer weather there are open air cars that are attached to the back of the train. 

At this time of year, there is snow in the higher elevations, the trees are turning colors, and the tiny towns along the route look like something out of Disney's storybook land.

The famous circular aqueduct

Mira Lago

Cheese on the hoof

I took this photo of the ice, then this happened

This kid appeared bored with his parents, so he broke off a piece of the ice

He found a dagger, and walked off

St. Moritz is beautiful, with a lovely lake at the bottom of the hill, hotels, restaurants and plenty of designer shops in the center of town.   We stopped for lunch and then peeked into shops and bought a few souvenirs, just to say we'd been there.

When in Switzerland, you have a bratwurst and roesti --I describe them as hash browns made in heaven

Amazing chocolate shop

On our ride back to Tirano, I took more photos.  Altogether I took over 250 photos, the scenery was just that spectacular.

We retrieved our car, headed to Bormio, this time on the right route, not the Gavia Pass that has given me nightmares since we were on it.  And, we have our laundry! Tomorrow, if the weather is right, we are heading to the Stelvio Pass, and this time we'll get to experience what the guys on The Grand Tour describe as the best driving road in the world.  Film at 11.  Ciao for now.

Ceramics and Chocolate, My Kind of Day

Heading farther East from Mandronova, we were going to stop in Caltagirone, a town famed for its ceramics.  I'm used to the highly glazed ceramics from Deruta in Umbria, but these ceramics are different, the glaze for tableware appeared to be more of a matte finish.  The staircase you see is completely constructed with ceramic tiles.

We had about 90 minutes to shop and grab a bit to eat before heading off to Modica for the chocolate demo.  Dr. C. and I went window shopping, and then heard singing in the cathedral, so we opened the door and stayed a while to hear the choir.

Since I'm not up on my church hierarchy, the gentleman with the mitre cap was probably a bishop, but when the hat was removed, he had on a red skull cap, which made us think he might have been a cardinal.  

The church was another plaster rather than marble church, it was light, bright and airy.  Quite unlike some of the other churches that we have seen that are dark and uninviting.  Here are a few more photos of the streets in Caltagirone and then we are off to Modica for chocolate.

We arrived in Modica and were met by our teacher Dr. Katia who runs a cooking school here.  She was going to show us how they make the famous chocolate from Modica, which is similar to the Mexican chocolate that we get in southern California.

Katia has a beautiful kitchen, and it is in her grandmother's old flat, what a joy to know she is carrying on tradition here

Pure cocoa

cocoa nibs

melting the chocolate over a bain marie slowly

Adding sugar and cinnamon, other flavors include vanilla and chili

flexible molds

The dull one on the right is ready, the others go into the fridge

Samples:  left: cocoa with beef in pastry like an empanada, center: chocolate with chili, almond cookies

In the winter they serve customers hot chocolate, in the summer, gelato--we were so glad we came in May!

Cathedral of Modica basso (lower town)

One of the oldest chocolate makers in Modica

Original chocolate makers used a lava stone over the fire to melt the chocolate

That's a lot of chocoalte

After our tour, and tasting, we were on the road to Siracusa, and Ortigia island.

Modica is a beautiful city of baroque architecture, and a UNESCO world heritage site.  Worth the trip, especially to taste the chocolate.  I'll have more from Siracusa soon.  Ciao for now.