On the Road with Enoteca Properzio

Our Angelini family, from Enoteca Properzio comes to the US in January, and spends 3 months traveling to different states, presenting private wine tastings to collectors.  These evenings are very special, the wines are wines that are not available in the US, and so they are very unique.  We have been privileged to help out at a few of these wine tastings, I help out in the kitchen with my adopted sorrella (sister) Daniela, and Dr. C. busing tables, and pouring wines.  We love doing this, because the experience is rare, and  special.  Watching someone sampling these rare wines, paired with Umbrian foods is a delight.  Enoteca Properzio is one of the top 3 wine bars in Italy; their hospitality and graciousness makes the experience so extraordinary.  Here are a few photos from their stops in San Diego and La Quinta.

A game of foosball before the party starts!

 

L to R:  Our host, Jim, Roberto, Irene, Luca and Daniela

Hanging on every word

Dr. C. and I

Amazing kitchen staff

Roberto with some fans of Kurni 2010

La Quinta

Daniela and Irene hard at work in the kitchen

Let's open all this wine!

Beautiful venue

Una bella notte

One of the dishes that Daniela prepares at the wine tastings is a Carbonara-style pasta with zucchini, and Pecorino cheese from Umbria.  It is heaven on a plate!  Here is a sketch of how to make this delicious meal.

Daniela's Zucchini Carbonara 

Serves 8

One pound strangozzi dry pasta, or buccatini (see note), cooked 3 minutes short of al dente

2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

4 medium zucchini, seeds removed, and finely chopped

salt and pepper

6 egg yolks

1 1/2 cups finely shredded aged Pecorino Romano cheese

1. In a large skillet, heat the oil, and cook the zucchini until the zucchini begins to turn golden, about 10 to 15 minutes.  
2. Remove the zucchini from the oil, and season with salt and pepper.  Set aside.  
3. While the zucchini and the pasta cook, in a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, and 1 cup of the cheese.  
4. When the pasta is cooked 3 minutes short of al dente, drain the pasta, and save some of the pasta water and return the pasta to the pan.   
5. Add the egg mixture to the pasta, stirring to cook the eggs with the hot pasta.  
6. Add the zucchini and season the mixture  with salt and pepper.  Serve the pasta garnished with additional cheese.  Buon appetito!

Cook's Note:  Strangozzi is a thick pasta, similar to buccatini.  Any thick pasta will work here. 

We are grateful for the time we spend with the Angelinis, and they are one of the reasons we love being in Spello.  Any trip to Italy should include a stop in Spello for wine tasting at Enoteca Properzio. 

Enoteca Properzio

Our time in Spello is spent at Enoteca Properzio with Roberto Angelini and his family; brother Carlo, wife Daniela, daughter Irene, and son Luca.  Roberto and Carlo are a 7^th generation wine merchant, with his children making it 8 generations.  

 The wines that Roberto serves and sells, are all from small production wineries, wines that you will not find in the US or any other country, due to the small production.  A typical degustatione (wine tasting) has 5 to 6 glasses set up, along with a table setting. 

The tastings begin with bruschetta; the first are olive oils, the nuovo or new olive oil was available while we were there.  Dark olive green in color, the flavor is intense, and luxurious all at once.  The second olive oil is from Doctore Cippoloni, this oil is more buttery in flavor, and is the only olive oil Alain Ducase the famous French chef will use in his kitchens.  These are paired with a crisp white wines from the area, either Tili Grechetto, or Tili Etrusco (blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay). 

The next bruschetta have what they describe as “pates” spread on them: white truffle, black truffle, arugula, fresh tomatoes tossed with oil,  and sun dried tomatoes.  These are paired with the first red, usually a rosso from the area, either the Sagrantino grape (which grows no where else) or a Sagrantino blend.  

Next up is a choice of pasta al tartufo or pasta al pomodoro perfectly paired with another rosso, maybe this time, a local Pinot Noir or a Super Tuscan.   Truffles are a local product, and truffle pasta is something to be experienced. With black truffle rolled into the pasta, then tossed with a bit of oil, and shaved truffle over the top.

La zuppa, a choice of ribolitta, farro, or legume soup.  Thick with vegetables, and pasta, or farro, it’s stick to your ribs fare paired with another red wine from Umbria. 

Salade Mediterraneo is a combination of lambs ears’ lettuce, fresh chopped tomatoes with capers, fresh buffalo mozzarella, and preserved tuna fish.  This is dressed with Dr. Cippoloni’s olive oil, and 25 year old traditionally made balsamic vinegar from Modena. 

Last course is a cheese platter with pecorino (sheeps’ milk cheeses) truffle, pepperoni (hot chile) aged Grand Riserva (similar to Parmigiano but a pecorino), another wrapped in walnut leaves, another wrapped in grape leaves and soused with Barolo (called umbriaco—drunk)  and the last aged in a limestone cave and packed in sand. These are served along with chestnut honey for pairing with Kurni 2010.  Kurni is the #1 wine in Italy this year, and was written up in The Wine Spectator magazine a few months ago.  Kurni is much like port in that it paints the glass, and lingers on the palate---paired with salty foods, it is an experience.  

Dessert wines are a new experience for many Americans.  Served with totsetti (small biscotti) to dip into the wine, the passito is a delightful ending to this 3 hour wine pairing. 

Reactions to this wine pairing vary; Americans are a suspicious lot---many ask, why does he keep pouring?  Why?  Because his passion is this wine, this region and its products—that you should sit at his table and enjoy it, as well as celebrate the rare opportunity you have been given.  Hospitality is in Roberto’s family’s DNA—this is what they do, naturally.  No agenda except to share his passion with you and hope that you will embrace the experience.  When we send people to Enoteca Properzio we tell them that this is an experience in Umbria they should not miss, and to us, it’s as important as seeing the Pinturrichio and Perugino frescoes in the churches next door. 

So on your next trip to Italy, put Spello on your itinerary, it is an unspoiled little hill town, tiny,  with one road in being the same one that goes out.  2 1/2 hours from Rome, a stop at Enoteca Properzio (one of the top 3 wine bars in Italy) should be at the top of the list, then go to Assisi, Montefalco, Perugia, and Gubbio.  Umbria is not as overrun with tourists as Tuscany, so it’s a slower experience, stop and let yourself become Italiano for the day or a week!  

Don't Trifle with that Truffle!

There is nothing trifling about this truffle our friend Roberto Angelini is holding; not only is it enormous, it's also heavy! Here in Umbria truffle hunting is an ancient art; having used pigs for years, dogs are now used to hunt for the truffles, and as you can tell this doggy brought home a winner!

  Just thinking about all the luscious things one could prepare with this baby is mind boggling.....I could go on like Bubba in the movie Forest Gump where he talks about all the ways you can cook shrimp, but instead talk about truffles! 

Truffle Pasta

Truffle Risotto

Truffled Eggs

Truffle Bruschetta

Veal Coated with white truffles

 My mouth is watering just thinking about all the lovely dishes one could make from such an amazing specimen!  Roberto will also pair the perfect wine with this beautiful truffle.....today at lunch we had an amazing new wine Le Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia 2008....if you have had Sassicaia, you will love this wine! A super Tuscan, by the Bolgheri family (yes, those Bulgari's) the wine is just as beautiful as their jeweled creations.   
Our daughter and her family left this morning, and we are missing them already, but our son Ryan will be arriving on Thursday evening into Rome, and we are looking forward to introducing him to Italy.   Wishing you buona sera from Spello.