Chef Life: The 'F' Word

Got your attention?  I didn't even have to write the word, you just knew.  Working in professional kitchens is hot, hard, exhausting work; long hours, standing on your feet all day, directing a staff, or being directed.  The role of the head chef is like the conductor of the symphony, directing and moving people through the system so that every job is done correctly, and on time.  If you have watched any reality shows about working in professional kitchens you know that some chefs are pure professionals, working alongside their staff, training them, making sure that they are well prepared for the working day and night ahead. Professionals, they are comfortable in their abilities, and their own skin.  They teach, and work alongside their staff as a team, they will peel vegetables, or wash dishes if the work needs to be done.  Their orchestra is working together to make beautiful music, or in this case beautiful food that they can be proud of.    

This is a photo from the French Laundry, you can see that each chef is doing his own job, meticulously plating the food, or preparing for the next dishes.  The head chefs have trained them well, and are confident in everyones' ability; that doesn't mean that they will accept anything less than perfection, it does mean that they expect excellence and they get it.  There is no chaos here, just orderly preparation, with the kitchen orchestra performing an elegant piece. 

The other side of this coin, are the chefs who rant and rave at their staff, belittling them, swearing non-stop for no apparent reason. These chefs are tyrants, threatened by everything and everyone, swearing with every other word they utter and throwing their staff under the bus whenever they can since they don't want to take responsibility for their own lack of knowledge and direction in the kitchen. They are disruptive, unhelpful, and no one learns from them; instead the staff either tunes them out, or collapses into tears of frustration. If these chefs were conducting an orchestra it would sound like every note was off-key, with the instruments out of tune, because these chefs are incapable of conducting the food is either cold, poorly seasoned, or both.  These chefs would not lower themselves to do menial tasks, since they feel that they are better than that.  

Chef Gordon Ramsey, who's only vocabulary consists of the F-word with many endings

OK, I get it, a kitchen can be a dangerous place, spilling scalding water or oil over yourself

or lighting your sleeve on fire might elicit a string of words you might not otherwise utter, you cut yourself, or it's so darned hot you just want to spew.

But in the grand scheme of things, does swearing at your staff really accomplish anything other than lowering their respect for you, and realizing that you are threatened by everyone and everything that happens in the kitchen?  If anyone has worked for you any length of time, they get it, and they know you have nothing to offer, so you cover it up with bluster and offensive language---that's Jr. high, not real life.
Kitchens can just as easily be places of calm, even with loud music in the background, if everyone is concentrating on their work, the kitchen hums along without a bump in the service.  The f-word spewing chefs won't leave people alone, they are bullies, find victims, and they are merciless.
I've worked with both types of chefs, and I can tell you who I'd rather work for; someone who  is confident in their abilities, with a smooth, orderly kitchen, not the despotic screamer whose only skill is to belittle and swear at their staff.  Ciao for now. 

Farewell to the Rome Sustainable Food Project

 As I sat in the garden waiting for the lunch shift to end today, I gathered my thoughts about the last few weeks, and knew it would be hard for me to say goodbye to the staff here.  The interns, and chefs, dishwashers, and wait staff have all been patient, and kind, with me in their faces with a camera and questions.  I feel like Nonna to the interns, and could not have wished for a better experience with a group of young people---they will all be stars no matter where they go when they leave here.  I think that the RSFP will be hard to top when they move on to other jobs.  Tonight there won't be a dinner service, because the staff and the Fellows are playing a soccer game. They are calling it Romans vs Barbarians!  I have considered not letting Dr. C. go, because I'm sure there will be some type of oral injury and he'll want to help. (think elbow or header to the face and you'll get the picture!)

L to R:  Chef Chris Behr, Leah, Jeremy, Michelle, Caspar, Tom, Clementine and McLane

Not in the photo is Chef Domenico Cortese, a gifted and talented chef who was more than patient with me as we exchanged ideas, and our love of food.  I worked my last night in the kitchen with him on Wednesday.  Wednesdays, at the Academy are vegetarian nights, and his main course was a baked risotto with artichokes, stuffed with artichoke puree and cheese, topped with a fonduta sauce, and fried artichokes.  Here are a few photos of that night, for some reason the photos of the spectacular panna cotta didn't come out, they are probably lost on the computer somewhere. 

Changing of the guard, lunch shift/evening shift exchanging information

Artichokes are dusted with a bit of semolina, then fried once, and then fried again--they are so crispy and delicious!  They were all calling my name. 

Beginning of the fonduta sauce--this one was a little "lighter" only cream and grated Pecorino

Domenico called this his antipasto di verdure; grilled romaine lettuce, fresh torpedo onions and fava beans tossed with wine viniagrette, garnished with toasted sliced almonds and sesame seeds. 

Twice fried

Building the plate, baked risotto with carnaroli, red rice, and farro

Building the plate, a bit of fonduta over the risotto

A bit of olive oil dressed arugula to round out the plate

My last night was perfect, working with Domenico, McLane and Clementine

 I am grateful to chef Chris Behr for allowing me into his kitchen, to the other chefs, and interns who so patiently answered my questions and didn't swat at me when I took their photos.  Grazie Mille, instead of goodbye, I will say, Ciao for now. 

Afternoon with Kelly Medford

Two weeks ago, Dr. C. took a leap of faith and went on a sketching tour with Kelly Medford, a local artist here in Rome.  I'd arranged it before we came to Rome, when my friend Rick Breco (he of the birthday boy post) suggested it.  I knew with my being in the kitchen at the Academy some days that he might enjoy a way to pass the time here in Rome.  It was a hit!  He really enjoyed it, and has used his little sketch pad, and kit that was provided to do some more since he took the class.  

We asked Kelly if she'd join us for lunch, so this morning we took the bus up to her studio, got a tour and I finally got to meet her.

She not only works in water color, but also in oils, these are some of her creations.  I'm in awe of anyone who can do this, because it's not my forte at all.  (although she says you don't need any experience to do it,I prefer to differ on that score)

I loved both these photos of mentor and pupil!  Kelly is so approachable and talented, we had a fabulous time looking at her work.  We're hoping she'll come to San Diego and sketch there.  We were trying to seduce her with photos of the desert, and the ocean.....just could happen!

Kelly did some of the artwork for this guide book to Naples including the maps which she sketched---highly recommend it if you are going to Naples, it's actually a work of art.

Kelly shares the space with other artists, this one does paper mache, everywhere I looked there was another one. 

The other artist is a transfer painter (not sure what the technical name is) she paints onto plastic, then transfers to paper or canvas.  Here she's working with fish, we watched her doing the first one. 
After all the art, it was time for pranzo, and we headed across the street to Trattoria Da Cesare.
Of course, the food, the company and the conversation were so much fun. 

Eggplant meatballs

Fried gnocchi with caccio pepe sauce (on the table in heaven)

Tornarelli with meat ragu

Dr. C. with his standard Spaghetti alla vongole

Kelly had to pasta with vignarola of artichoke, fava beans, and asparagus with guianciale (amazing)

Panna cotta for dessert

Thank you Kelly for a great afternoon, I hope we'll see you in San Diego or when we return to Rome. 
I spent my last night in the Academy kitchen yesterday, working on that post for tomorrow.  Dr. C. and I have 2 more days here in Rome, then head to Spello for 2 weeks.  Although I've loved this experience, when I'm in Italy, I really am the country mouse as opposed to the city mouse.  Somehow I've lost my city-cred, and prefer the quiet life in the country.  Ciao for now.

Stolen Lemon Olive Oil Cake

While staying at the Villa Aurelia, there have been several receptions held here during the month.  In the lead-up to these events, the lemon trees that are in front of the Villa are rolled around from the front of the villa to different places on the property.  

One tree was rolled up outside of our door a few nights ago, and I couldn't resist availing myself of a few of these beautiful fruits. Truth be told, they let the fruit drop from these trees, and no one picks them up, rather than let them go to waste, I took the sustainable approach, and picked a few before they fell off the trees.  Just hoping the local Carabinieri don't come and arrest us before we leave on Sunday!

So with a few lemons, and being in a sustainable mood, I needed to use up some ingredients before we leave on Sunday.  I thought trying a lemon olive oil cake would be a great idea, since I'd used up the butter on the nutella bars.  We decided that this one is a winner, although I think it needs a lemon glaze, but confectioner's sugar seems to be non-existent in our local supermercato.  You can certainly sub in orange, lime, or grapefruit for the lemons, but it's a simple way to use up the zest and juice. 

Lemon Olive Oil Cake

Makes one 9-inch round

2 large eggs

1/3 cup good quality olive oil

3 tablespoons lemon juice

grated zest of 1 lemon

1/4 cup milk

1 cup sugar

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees, and coat the inside of a 9-inch baking dish with non-stick cooking spray.

In a mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, oil, juice, zest, milk and sugar.  

Fold in the flour and baking powder, mixing till it is incorporated and smooth.  

Transfer to the prepared pan, bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean.  Cool completely and serve.  This is great with a cup of coffee or tea.  

Since I am working without a net here, this was the closest I could come to a 9-inch baking dish with the dishes in the apartmento, but it worked.  If you would like, you could make a glaze using confectioners' sugar and lemon juice to pour over when it's cooled.  Ciao for now.