Lost in Translation and Italian Bureaucracy

So, what's that quote, 'money is the root of all evil?'  I beg to differ, it's paperwork that is the root of all evil.

Two days ago, we presented ourselves at the post office here to open a bank account.  We came armed with our Italian passports, codice fiscale a kind of social security number needed here, but we needed an Italian phone number, so that took 1 hour to get 2 SIM cards, then another hour to figure out how to get an account, all the while, the manager of the bank smiled, and tried her darnedest to get us that ATM card.
Alas, as with everything in a foreign country, there is always another piece of paper or another something that you need, that of course you don't have, and can't manufacture.  But on this day it wasn't the reams of paper that got in the way but the electronic signature machine wasn't working.
I'm sure it was tired, since we'd tried to sign almost 40 times.  So we were told to come back on Friday and it would take, 20 minutes at the most.

So today, we showed up again, at our appointed time, this time with a homemade lemon bundt cake, since these people were so sweet to us, apologetic, and trying their hardest to get us what we needed.  2 hours later, we walked out with activated ATM cards, check book, new pin numbers that we need to memorize, and reams of paper work.
Was this frustrating?  No.  Although we have Italian passports, we are still guests in a country that does things a bit differently that we do in the US, and if you are a guest, act like one.  This is what makes living here an experience.   We walked out of the post office having made several new friends, including the bank manager who worked so hard to get us what we needed.  Every day we meet new people, either expats from the UK, Australia, or US, and every day we meet more locals who welcome us into their shops and restaurants.  We are indeed blessed.  Ciao for now.

Daily Walkabouts

People often ask us, what do you do when you are in Italy.  I come here to decompress, the life here is simple, unstructured, and beautiful.  Around every bend in the road in this small town in Umbria there is beauty, whether it is an open door

a lane lined with blooming plants, 

or the view from a garden, 

these things make you stop and enjoy your surroundings.  In the US, I'm too busy to look, and too frantic to take the time.
Today Dr. C. and I did the first of our daily walkabouts, stopping at the bar for a cappuccino and cornetto,

and enjoying the view, then walking down the streets, taking photos of the sidewalk and balcony gardens just beginning to bloom.

Spello is called the city of flowers, and that is because on Corpus Domini, the streets are lined with designs done in flower petals the festival is called l'infiorata.  At this time of year, the stores, apartments, and balconies are all dressed with blooming plants.  There is a competition in neighborhoods, and between families to see who has the most beautiful display of flowers.

The weather has begun to turn, and we will have a high of about 76 degrees today; perfect for walking, and relaxing.
Continuing on our walk, we saw the church of San Lorenzo was open.  In the 17 years we have been coming here, this church has been closed, and the bells have been silenced.  Today we were stunned at the beauty inside this church.

Around most corners here, you will find things like the Church of San Lorenzo, a lovely view, or some beautiful flowers.

One street is known for its presepi, or nativities, and here are a few leftovers.  

Slowing down is the key word here; enjoying the sights and sounds of a small village, where the hardest decision is what to eat.  Ciao for now.

What Did You Have For Dinner?

Last fall, friends, Dr. C. and I went to Scottadito Osteria Tagliavento in Bevagna.  Owners of a butcher shop in this tiny town at the base of the hill going to Montefalco, the fourth generation decided to open a restaurant, and we are so happy they did!

Our party of seven arrived when they opened, and were given a table in the side room.  We then tried to decide what we would have from their incredible selection of starters, pastas, meats, and vegetables.  Rosita helped us, by suggesting we have both pastas to share at the table, along with rib eye and porterhouse for our mains.  A selection of grilled vegetables and potatoes baked in the embers rounded out this feast.

Beef, it's what's for dinner

We opted for the two pastas, tagliatelle tagliavento an egg pasta tossed with a pork and tomato sauce

This pasta is like a gnocchi made with flour, water and potatoes, then extruded through the meat grinder to cut it, tossed with oil, spring vegetables and pecorino it was sublime.

Keeping the main thing, the main thing, this place does beef to perfection.  Rib eye and Porterhouse aged 55 days.

An assortment of vegetables, spinach, potatoes, zucchini, eggplant

Even the bones are delicious

And, for dessert, left to right, like a napoleon, rocciatta---like a strudel-- and chocolate 'soft' cake

All this plus a magnum of Sagrantino (thank you Enoteca Properzio) and great conversation made this a special evening.  

Thank you Scottadito Osteria Tagliavento for a beautiful evening, your hospitality, care for the food, and for us was exceptional.   

Ireland, My Favorites

After 2 weeks in Ireland, it seems appropriate talk about my favorite things in Ireland.

The Scenery

Spectacular scenery abounds here, even in the middle of Ireland, with rolling green hills, dotted with sheep and cows, it's green and gorgeous.  

The light

This place is a photographers' dream; the light changes every few minutes, and what might look grey and cloudy one minute, is dappled and sunny the next.  

History

In the US we tend to think that 200+ years old is OLD, here some of the ruins are thousands of years old, making the history of this place unique and powerful.  

The Food

My grandmother Nora was not a great cook, and so my feelings about Irish cooking were embedded with childhood memories of overcooked meat and vegetables.  Nothing could be farther from the truth in modern-day Ireland; these people can cook!  With organic ingredients, superior meat, poultry and seafood, every meal we had was a revelation, even the fish and chips.  

The People

The Irish are happy to see you; inviting, gracious and aggressively friendly, we were welcomed everywhere, whether it was the toll-taker on the motorways, or the publican, we were made to feel at home in Ireland.  

The Tea

Served in silver pots with little strainers, the tea is extraordinary.  I know the English are famous for their tea, but the Irish serve an amazing cup.  

The Butter

Look at the color of that butter; thick, creamy, soft, spreadable, it was a revelation, and we spread it on anything we could.  

If you are in the US buy some Kerrygold, you will not be sorry.  

This was an amazing trip, finding my Grandmother's house, and staying at the Castle where my Great grandfather worked were extraordinary opportunities.  We are now in Italy for the next 2 months, and looking forward to more adventures here in our beloved Spello.  Ciao for now.