Passion for the Vines

 Over the years, Dr. C. and I have been privileged to stay in Spello and visit with the Angelini family at Enoteca Properzio during the months that we are living in town.  Every day is a different adventure, with new wines to sample and olive oils to try as well as delicious foods to pair with the wines, whether it's a dish cooked by the Enoteca or a taste from one of the cooking classes that they offer by appointment with a Michelin starred chef.

I tell people that there are 2 reasons to visit Spello, the first being Enoteca Properzio, the #1 wine cellar in Umbria, and one of the top three in Italy, and the Pinturichio frescoes in the church next door.  (Editor's Note:  the church is closed due to seismic damage, hoping to reopen in 2020, so go next door and have a glass of wine and some truffle pasta)

Offering wine tastings from exceptional vineyards, as well as lunch and dinner, the Enoteca is filled most days with wine lovers seeking special experiences and tastings.  

Father Roberto Angelini is a 7th generation wine merchant and master sommelier; taking clients through an unforgettable wine tasting, as they sample the best that Italy has to offer.  

 Son Luca and daughter Irene are the next generation of wine merchants, as well having started a successful line of beauty products made from organic olive oil and wines.  

What sets this place apart from any other place in Italy?  The word passion comes to mind.  The Angelini family are passionate about wine, and the local products that they serve with the wines; prosciutto di Norcia, the best pecorino from Pienza, torta al testo from a local bakery, organic olive oil from an organic farm 3 miles outside the walls of Spello, locally foraged truffles from about 10 miles away and they are passionate about making sure that you have a unique experience in this gem of a town that is one of the 100 most beautiful in Italy.  

Dessert wine with biscotti

 

The wines they serve are unique, and most are such small productions that they are not exported to the United States, but they can be shipped home along with olive oil and other products.  

Winter white truffle

 

This is my Valentine to our famiglia Angelini and their staff this holiday season.  Thank you for inviting us to the table to share in your hospitality.   Buon Natale everyone!

Do-Ahead Thanksgiving Sides

Thanksgiving week is upon us, it's only Sunday, so relax and start cooking now so that on Thanksgiving you can just roast the turkey and relax with your family and friends.  For years I've taught my Do-Ahead Thanksgiving classes to sold out cooking schools.  Although the menu has never changed (you can find the recipes in my book Perfect Party Food) this year, I've decided to give you a few more ideas for sides which are really my favorite part of the meal.  Dr. C, our son and I are in Maui for the NCAA basketball tournament, and I will be cooking dinner here in a condo on Kaanapali on Thursday. 
Brussels sprouts had never been a favorite until I tried this recipes, now it's a go-to.  Roasting the sprouts brings out the sweetness in in the vegetables, pancetta provides crispy salty nuggets and the balsamic vinegar balances the whole thing.  Make sure to buy an aged balsamic from Modena. 

Holiday Brussels Sprouts

Serves 6

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

one 1/2-inch slice pancetta, cut into a fine dice

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, cut into quarters

salt and pepper

1/3 cup aged balsamic vinegar

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and line a baking sheet with silicone, aluminum foil or parchment.
2. In a bowl, combine the oil, pancetta, garlic, sprouts, salt and pepper.
3. Spread the sprouts onto the baking sheet in an even layer.  
4. Roast for 10 minutes, turn, and roast another 5 to 7 minutes until the sprouts are just al dente.  
5. Remove from the oven, transfer to a serving bowl, and drizzle with the vinegar, tossing to coat.  
6. Serve warm.  
7. Do-Ahead:  When roasting, in step 4, roast for a total of 13 minutes, 10 to begin, turn and roast another 3 minutes.  Cool, cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.  Reheat in a skillet before proceeding.  

Roasted Butternut Squash Soup

Serves 6 to 8

This is a delicious soup to keep warm in your slow cooker.  Refrigerate the finished soup for up to 4 days, or freeze it (without the cream) for up to 2 months.  

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 cup chopped peeled and cored Granny Smith apple

8 cups cubed butternut squash

2 teaspoon dried thyme

salt and pepper

6 cups chicken or vegetable broth

1 cup heavy cream

8 strips bacon, cooked crisp, and crumbled

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees, line 2 baking sheets with silicone, aluminum foil, or parchment.  
2. In a large bowl, combine the oil, onion, apple, squash, thyme, and season with salt and pepper.  Roast for 15 to 20 minutes until the squash is soft when pierced with the tip of a sharp paring knife.  
3. Transfer the mixture to a Dutch oven, add the broth and bring to a boil.  Simmer for 15 minutes.  
4. Puree the soup with an immersion blender, add the cream, and bring to the soup to serving temperature.  
5. Garnish each serving with crispy bacon.  
6. Do-Ahead:  Prepare the soup through step 3, puree the soup, cool, cover and refrigerate for up to 4 days, or freeze for up to 2 months.  Reheat on the stove top add the cream and bring to serving temperature.  

Do-Ahead Cornbread Dressing

Serves 6 to 8

1/2 cup unsalted butter

1/4 pound prosciutto, finely diced

1 cup finely chopped onion

1 cup finely chopped celery

2 firm pears, peeled, cored and finely chopped

2 teaspoons dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried sage leaves

8 cups crumbled cornbread (use your favorite recipe)

4 to 5 cups chicken or vegetable broth

salt and pepper

1. In a large skillet, heat 1/4 cups of the butter, and saute the prosciutto until it is crispy.
2. Add the onion, celery, pears, thyme and sage leaves, and saute until the vegetables are softened, about 4 minutes.  
3. Put the cornbread into a large bowl, add the onion prosciutto mixture, adding 3 to 4 cups of chicken broth,until the dressing holds together.  
4. Coat the inside of a 13-by-9-inch baking dish with non-stick cooking spray.  Transfer the dressing to the casserole, melt the remaining butter and drizzle over the dressing.  At this point you can cool, cover and refrigerate the dressing for up to 3 days.  
5. Bring to room temperature and bake in a 350 degree oven for 30 to 40 minutes until the dressing is golden brown.  Allow to rest for 5 minutes before serving.  

One of my favorite desserts, that's easy and delicious is my mother's apple pie cake.  Basically apples seasoned with cinnamon, nutmeg, covered with a buttery pecan pour over crust that baked up into crispy topped apple pie.  This can be made the day before serving, or you can make the components and then bake while you are eating Thanksgiving dinner.  The photo doesn't do it justice, just trust me here that it's worth peeling the apples.  My favorite gadget peels cores and the apples in no time, or you can have your kids do it for you---it's endless entertainment!

Mom's Apple Pie Cake

Serves 6 

For the Apples

1 1/2 pounds apples, cored, peeled, and sliced 1/2-inch thick

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1.      To make the apple mixture, toss together the apples, cinnamon, nutmeg, sugar, and lemon juice in a large bowl.

For the Batter

3/4 cup unsalted butter melted

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1 cup sugar

1 large egg

3/4 cup pecan halves

1.      Preheat the oven to 375°F. Coat a 9-inch pie plate with nonstick cooking spray.  Transfer the apples to the prepared pan.

2.      To mix the batter, combine the melted butter, flour, sugar, eggs, and pecans, stirring until blended. Pour over the apples and bake until the top is crisp and golden, and the apples are bubbling underneath, 45 minutes to 1 hour. 

3.      Serve the cake warm or at room temperature with unsweetened whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

Wishing you all a happy and healthy Thanksgiving holiday.  I'm grateful to all those

colleagues who have worked with me over the years, as well as the students who 

keep coming back for classes.  You make my days when I am on the road.  

Aloha and mahalo.  

Fendi: Fashion and Wine

Several years ago, we had the pleasure of eating lunch with the enologist and the owner of Tenuta Le Corgne, Andrea Formilli Fendi at Enoteca Properzio. 
The winery was getting started, and the enologist was speaking about the Sauvignon Blanc and the Pinot Noir that they were producing at that time, about 300 bottles.  This year we were fortunate enough to visit the winery, Tenuta Le Corgne in the Northern Umbrian town of Valfabricca.  You don't just drop into vineyards like this, you have to be invited, and getting there is an adventure since the road is narrow, twisty and mostly gravel. 
Fendi, is a luxury brand specializing in fashion and leather goods.  They were founded in 1925 by Adele and Edoardo Fendi.  The next generation were 5 daughters.  If you know anything about Italy, you know that the men usually take over the family business, but since there was no male heir, the girls continued the brands' overwhelming success.  Franca Fendi's son, Andrea decided to grow grapes at the estate his mother had bought in the 1990's.  Originally a country estate where the family would gather for holidays, now the estate is an organic vineyard producing world class wines. 

 The winery sits on a hill overlooking a valley, with only 24 acres of vineyards, growing Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, and Merlot.  They have a few acres in Montefalco as well, growing some Sagrantino and Trebbiano Spoletino.
As you can tell it was a rainy, windy day up on the hill, and we were soon inside the winery discussing the process with the enologist, Martin.  Martin explained that the winery is all organic, the detris from the grape crush is put back into the limestone sandy soil, and to quote him, "this paradise must be maintained, not destroyed." 

Oak from Burgundy for the barrels

The grape crush had happened, and we were smelling the fermentation process as we came into the room filled with tanks.  This year there will be about 90,000 bottles of wine produced.  This wine will be hard to come by in the States, most is shipped within Europe and Asia.  

Our guide through the winery, Martin

Martin is the enologist at Formilli Fendi, and he is a genius.  If you have an opportunity to sample these wines, you will be amazed.  The Sauvignon Blanc is truly delightful, with a nose of white flowers, and citrus...many times a Sauvignon Blanc will be flat without any real flavor, acid or balance.  

We moved into the tasting room, and were surrounded by art, and wine; my favorite things

The door from the tasting room is historic, since it is the door to the original Fendi store in Rome

This white wine is Trebbiano Spoletino (indigenous to Umbria) and a bit of Sauvignon Blanc

Casa Franca is 50% Sagrantino, almost 50% Sangiovese and a bit of Merlot

Of course we tried these wines, and loved them, each with a distinctive nose and characteristics that make them unique and definitely worth buying if you can find them.  If you are in Italy, stop by Enoteca Properzio, they carry the wines and are happy to pour them for you.  

Another reason to love the Fendi family is that they provided 2.2 million Euro to restore the Trevi fountain in Rome.  

Our afternoon ended with us trundling down the hill to lunch with the administrator of the winery.  Grazie Tenuta Le Corgne for an unforgettable day.  

White Lasagna with Sausage and Truffles

Umbria is known as the green heart of Italy because it is land-locked; it doesn't border another country or either coast.  Often bypassed by visitors for it's more glittering neighbor, Tuscany, Umbria has a wealth of history predating the Romans, amazing scenery and magnificent cuisine.  The culinary treasures here are black and white truffles, pork in any iteration, pecorino cheese, black celery and cippolini that earn a DOC seal, lentils, farro, olive oil, and Sagrantino wines all contribute to the bounty of delicious foods that are served not only in homes but in the restaurants and shops. 

A week ago, Dr. C. and I were invited to a dinner in Todi at a friends' house.  She confessed that she hadn't made the lasagna, but had bought it at their favorite pasta shop---I'm all for making things easy, and this lasagna was memorable.  Thin sheets of pasta sandwiched with pork sausage, in a creamy truffle sauce.  I have dreamed of this pasta for a week, and today decided to make it.  It's Sunday and that calls for something special for Sunday lunch, the UK isn't the only place that reveres a Sunday lunch.
Yesterday Dr. C. and I traveled to Bevagna to Scottadito Tagliavento to pick up some sausages for the lasagna and ended up with a bisteka for last night's dinner. 

I'd say that for the sausage we used about 1/2 pound removed from the casings for the lasagna. Here in Umbria the sausage is made with pork, salt, pepper, and maybe a bit of garlic, but not a lot. 
This is a pretty simple dish to put together, and all the components can be made ahead then put together and baked. 

My friend who was serving the lasagna gifted me with this black truffle, Mama Mia!

White Lasagna with Black Truffles

Serves 6

I know not everyone has access to fresh truffles; rather than using truffle oil, which is usually made in laboratories, I'd suggest sauteing some meaty mushrooms like cremini, or if you can find them porcini, dice them finely or shave them, you want them to dissolve into the sauce.  

1/2 pound sweet Italian pork sausage, removed from the casing

1/4 cup unsalted butter or olive oil

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable broth

1 1/2 cups milk

1/3 to 1/2 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese (if you aren't using truffles, use 1/2 cup)

1/4 cup shaved black truffle

salt and pepper

Fresh pasta to make 3 layers, or 9 Barilla no boil lasagna noodles

sliced soft pecorino cheese for garnish (if you can't find it, use Asiago)

In a skillet cook the sausage until it is no longer pink, breaking up any large pieces.  Drain and set aside to cool.

In a saucepan melt the butter, add the flour and whisk for 2 minutes to cook the flour.

Add the broth and milk, and whisk until the mixture comes back to a boil.  

Remove from the heat, add the cheese, and truffles, season with salt and pepper if necessary.  

Coat the inside of a 13-by-9-inch pan with non-stick cooking spray.
Ladle some of the sauce into the pan, and spread to cover the bottom.  

lay a sheet of pasta over the sauce, and ladle a bit of the sauce over the pasta.  Top with 1/2 of the sausage.  

Top with a layer of pasta, sauce, and the remaining sausage. 
Lay the last 3 pieces of pasta on top, spread the remaining sauce on the top and spread the soft pecorino over the sauce.  

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees, and bake covered for 30 minutes, then uncovered for 10 to 15 minutes until the lasagna is bubbling, and the cheese is golden brown.  Allow the lasagna to rest for 10 minutes before cutting. 
Do-Ahead: The entire lasagna can be assembled 48 hours ahead of time, bring to room temperature and bake.  Since truffles are so delicate, I probably wouldn't freeze this, but you could.

This is a rich lasagna, studded with nuggets of pork and redolent of truffle and pecorino, the perfect way to enjoy Umbria on a Sunday afternoon.  We served it with a salad dressed with red wine vinegar (to cut the richness) and a white Grecchetto.  And, I have enough truffle left over to make this again before we leave.  Now it's time for a walk and a gelato.  Ciao for now.