What Day is It? Quarantine Kitchen; Pasta Alla Norma

Almost three weeks ago, I lost a dear friend; we had traveled together with our spouses, and she had led my last tour to Sicily in April 2019.  I've had her and her family on my heart and on my mind this week---somehow I feel her loving presence nearby in many ways, and today I was remembering our time in Palermo.
Dr. C. and I have lost 7 friends all to non-Covid related illnesses, and this has been a tough time.  Tonight, it was time to get back in the kitchen, and so tonights' meatless Wednesday was a typical dish you will find in many restaurants in Sicily, Pasta all Norma.  This is a dish that is almost ready while the pasta water is boiling.  I made a pilgrimage to my favorite Italian store today and bought ricotta salata to make this truly authentic. 

Pasta Alla Norma

Serves 6

1 medium eggplant, cut into 1/2-inch dice

salt

One pound penne, or other shaped pasta like rigatoni, cooked 2 minutes short of al dente reserving some of the hot pasta water

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 cup finely chopped 

pinch red pepper flakes

One 28-ounce can chopped tomatoes, or tomato puree

1/4 cup finely chopped basil

1/4 cup finely chopped Italian parsley

salt and pepper

1/2 cup crumbled Ricotta Salata with more for garnish

Put the eggplant into a colander, and sprinkle liberally with salt.  Let stand for 15 to 20 minutes then squeeze out any moisture.  

In a large skillet, heat the oil, saute the onion, garlic, and red pepper flakes, until the onion is translucent.  

                               Add the eggplant, and saute until the eggplant begins to brown.  

Add the tomatoes, basil, and parsley simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until thickened.  Season with salt and pepper.  

Add the ricotta salata, and cook another 3 minutes, until the cheese is melted.  

Toss the pasta with the sauce, add some of the pasta if needed, and serve garnished with additional ricotta salata, or shredded Pecorino Romano cheese.  

This is a great meatless dish to add to your repertoire, and eggplant is now in season, so it's easy to find beautiful eggplants at your farmer's market.  

I hope that you all are staying safe and well, and I'll be back soon.  Wear a mask; it's a show of love for others.  

Sicily the Beautiful

View from the Hotel Ambassciatore Rooftop 

Although Sicily is a part of Italy, it is a world away; a melting pot of food and culture, it really is a crossroads of the Mediterranean.  I am hosting a wine and food tour with my friend Phillis Carey  If any of you know us, you know we are in this for the fun, sharing this incredible island with our students, family and friends.  We aren't wearing tiaras or crazy t-shirts, but we are eating and drinking some fabulous fare.  
Our group of 16 arrived on Friday into Palermo, the capital of Sicily.  It was rainy and cold, but that didn't stop our crew from getting the most out of walking tour of the city highlights. 

Our intrepid group took off and saw the major sites, including some beautiful churches.  There are many churches in Palermo, some with flooring that dates back to the Arabian conquest of the country.

Arabic influence in the church architecture

Ancient Arabic floor

Cathedral of St. Rosalia

The opera house; if you recognize this, it's because a death scene from Godfather 3 was filmed here

After about 3 miles, we were ready for dinner.  Our dinner was at a great place where pizza is a specialty, but other items on the menu are awesome.  Click here to find out more. 

Fried mozzarella with olive pesto and tomatoes

Classic street food, arrancini

My fave:  grilled zucchini stuffed with bread crumbs, cheese, tomato, pine nuts, and raisins, Mama Mia!

Pizza with artichokes, mushrooms and prosciutto

Bottom to top:  Ragusano cheese, eggplant parmigiana, caponata

What a great day, touring the city and ending with a great meal.  That is Sicily (and Italy)  so many foods to try and places to see.  Our tour continues on Sunday when we head to Marsala and the salt pans, ending up in Menfi at La Forrestiere.  Ciao for now.

Palermo: It's Not all About The Godfather

Out of the hotel at 9:30 we were joined by our guide Enrica, born and bred in Palermo, and proud of this amazing city.  We headed first to Trattoria Focacceria Del Massimo to taste some local street food.  This is cucina povera, the food of the poor, served with pride.  

Making Panella, a chick pea fritter

This explains the method; a chick pea polenta-like mixture is slapped onto the tiles and then fried in soybean oil

Potato croquettes with mint; since I've never met a potato I didn't like, these were a winner

arancine: fried rice balls stuffed with ham and cheese 

Stuffed with beef, peas, and carrots

Chick pea fritters

Get a load of that porchetta on the slicer!

There was food everywhere here, and it was all fresh, and ready for lunchtime patrons.  Trattoria Focacceria Del Massimo has been in this location for 4 generations over 90 years.  

Caponata

Eggplant

Veggies

eggplant

Zucchini

Next up we were off to the 'Capo' market, the original Arabic market in the city.  Short history of The Island of Sicily:  founded by the Phoenicians, then conquered by the Arabs, and then taken over by the Spanish, before being reunited with Italy.  The Arabian influence is dominant here, in the foods, and the architecture.  I'll let the market speak for itself; imagine the smells and the sounds of the different vendors as you stroll through the market, dodging scooters, and motorbikes.

those are enormous zucchini

Wild fennel

Mulberries

Tiny Strawberries 

Clams

Octopus

Baby octopus

Baby calamari

Swordfish

Tuna

Tiny octopus

Fish mongers

Torpedo onions

Cherries

Romanesco as big as your head

More onions

Baby artichokes

Dr. C. says the tomatoes here are the best he's had

Olives!

Lumache; baby snails

salted capers

apricots

Heading out of the market, we climbed a hill and found some old painted carts that are now on display.  It was described as an outdoor museum.

Walking out of the alleyway, we came upon the cathedral.  What a sight.

Here you can see the Arabic and Norman influences

Coming around to the front of the cathedral you can see the beautiful park in front with flowers, palm trees and tree bougainvillea

As we walked outside, we joined the several thousand cruise ship passengers who had been set ashore, and we walked towards the Ballaro market where I got the impression that this was the market for immigrants, with stalls selling everyday items, as well as fruits and vegetables.

Vestment shop

Graffiti is everywhere here, don't let is dissuade you from coming, this is an amazing city with a history and culture that is unique

Donut peaches

Peppers

Sicilian lemons

Cheese shop

And of course, no market would be complete without hogs heads

Almonds

These markets are beehives of activity; people shopping, vendors yelling to get your attention, the smells, and the sights are enticing.

Heading out of the market, we walked down wide streets to the final market of the day, located where the butchers used to do their work.  But first, another church, and an enormous fountain that was originally in Florence, and transported here.

In the town hall square

They call the rainbow flag here the flag of peace...finally something that makes sense

At the market, we were going to try a spleen sandwich from Rocky who is famous on You Tube, a friend of Joe Bastianich, he made our sandwiches for us.  A bit like rubber bands sauteed in lard, then spritzed with lemon and sprinkled with salt.  

And, after our sandwiches we needed something to drink, so we were taken to a bar, and we tried the local wines, Zibbibo, Sangue, or Marsala.  All tasted about like Marsala, I took a few sips, but would rather cook with it.

Our hosts

Hanging out with the locals

This market called Vuccheria, is small, and getting smaller

There are dogs everywhere

They will cook potatoes here for you, then you take them home; our guide swears they taste better when cooked at the market

Off to our last stop, for a typical Sicilian ice cream creation, gelato on a brioche---don't knock it till you have tried it!

They also serve cannoli

Oh!  I want one!

True Siciliani pick this up with their hands and eat it!  

Although delicious, I have to be honest, I couldn't finish mine, two flavors and all that brioche was amazing.

And so, 6 hours later, we are off to our hotel to have a rest before dinner.  I took a few shots along the way as we headed back.

Ciao for now!