Eating Our Way Through Rome

I will admit that I am not the best person to ask where to eat in Rome, since we only spend short periods of time here, but I rely on my friends who live here and the brilliant Elizabeth Minchilli who writes about her faves everywhere in Italy, but her home is here in Rome.  I have been to many restaurants that Elizabeth has recommended and she is spot on each time.  This week we have been to some old favorites of mine, and some new ones thanks to Elizabeth's recommendations.

OK, give me a break, I've been here 2 1/2 months and I needed a burger fix, and got the perfect cheeseburger at Eataly in Piazza della Republica.  I've been to both the one in the Piazza and the behemoth at Piramide station, this one is smaller, more intimate, not quite as crazy.  A delicious lunch accompanied by a Montefalco rosso and I was set.

Our second foray was a mistake.  Chef Christina Bowerman used to have a restaurant here in Prati called Romeo Chef and the Baker, but when we went to find it, it was now a beer restaurant---go figure, beer in Italy, it's taking off.  They had more than 20 beers on tap, and nice pizzas.  This was also a lesson, restaurants come and go, check before you wander out in the heat and humidity, you could be on a wild goose chase.

Our friend Rick Breco of Noi Salon recommended Babbette to me many years ago, and so I felt it was time for another visit.  This is a beautiful place off the craziness of Piazza del Popolo, with a French/Italian vibe.  Our amuse bouche was described as cream potato with truffle, I'd describe it as amazing.

Broccoli Veloute---basically broccoli, olive oil and a bit of fennel---good to the last drop

Paccheri with gorgonzola, spinach and pistachios---Mama Mia!

Taglietelle with Beef Ragu

Pasta with fresh tomatoes and basil

Yesterday after a long walk, and some shopping we ended up in the Jewish Ghetto at Piperno a recommendation from Elizabeth Minchilli's Eat Rome app.  Although there are many restaurants here in the Ghetto, this one is in a secluded tiny piazza, and we were seated outside, under umbrellas.  We were in for a treat, with white coated waiters in bow ties, and delicious food.

Carcioffi alla Giudia

The fried whole artichoke is a specialty at these restaurants, and we decided to give them a try.  They also excel at fried zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella, and anchovy.

Our main courses were pasta, because that's what we do here.  

Dr. C. opted for the ravioli with spinach and ricotta

The girls and I opted for the ravioli stuffed with veal.  

For dessert we had to try the famous Palle di Nonno (Grandpa's balls) Deep fried chocolate, ricotta and pistachios

Dr. C's face when he saw Palle de Nonno on the menu

As we walk through history here, we are putting in at least 4 miles per day, between shopping, touring and wandering.  People have asked me why we don't weigh 500 pounds, and it's because we are eating good, clean food and exercising.  We usually lose weight over here because we are walking so much.

After almost 5 days of non-stop sightseeing today we have nothing on our agenda, but that doesn't mean we have nothing on our plates....sorry I couldn't resist that.  We went out for our usual cappuccino and cornetto this morning, then around 1 p.m. headed to another restaurant in the neighborhood, Dal Toscano.  It is on the edge of the more touristy area, but we were the only Americans there, and were seated inside, enveloped in air conditioning (when it's 90+ degrees, you don't want to sit outside) and by our waiter who was attentive, but not overbearing.  We could have stayed there all afternoon it was so delightful.

Who knew fresh fried potato chips could be this good?  Top left potato croquette,fried artichokes, fried zucchini flower, zucchini, fried ricotta, and in the middle I'm still not sure, could be a cardoon.

Saltimboca, traditional Roman dish

Pappardelle with Ragu Toscano

 A little Super Tuscan

This desert doesn't look like much but we named it the second best after the deep Cappuccino at L'Alchimista, zabaglione with hot chocolate sauce, at the bottom was a tangerine sorbet, also delicious.

So ending our meal with espresso, we headed out into the heat, and back to the apartment we are renting here in Prati.  If you are coming to Rome and looking for an apartment to rent, our friend Roberto can fix you up with a beautiful apartment in a true neighborhood, rather than the touristy central historic district.  You can contact him at roma_antica@hotmail.com .  Tonight we are doing a nighttime tour of Rome, and I'm looking forward to taking my camera and enjoying the sights after dark. Ciao for now.

To My Cincinnati Students and Friends: Come Along to Italy and the Road Less Traveled

This post is for my CooksWares students, and friends who have heard me talk so much about my love for Italy, our adopted hometown of Spello and the Italians.  Come along next May for the trip I've been wanting to take you on for years.  We will see beautiful hill towns, experience uncrowded villages, and end the trip in Rome.  It will be a week packed with food, wine, and culture, with a bit of time for shopping and relaxing, as well.  Umbria is the road less traveled, not nearly as overrun with tourists, its pleasures are many, and you will experience them all.  So, take a look at the brochure and get your deposit in soon.  I am leading this trip for another school in October, and it sold out in a week.  Space is limited, so come along and we'll experience a culinary trip designed just for you.

 -Highlights of this Small Custom Group Tour- May 13-22, 2017

•Rome:  1 Night Hilton Airport on arrival day, Classic rooms 

•Todi:  5 Nights Hotel Bramante,  Deluxe rooms with valley view 

•Rome:  2 Nights Hotel 47,  Deluxe rooms 

•All Breakfasts    •5 Lunches   •4 Dinners (one at a Michelin-starred restaurant) 

•5 Cooking Classes     •Cheese-making demonstration     •Truffle hunt 

•Guided tour of Assisi     •4 casual Town visits     •Private Vatican Tour

                                                               
                                      

Our first full day, we will have a cooking class at the hotel with their renown chef, and lunch.  After a brief rest, we will head to Assisi, the home of St. Francis, the patron saint of Italy for a private tour, and dinner on your own.

Day two we will head to Pienza to a working farm, and watch as pecorino cheese is being made, and then enjoy lunch at the farm.  Pienza is the home of the best Pecorino in Italy.

After lunch a short trip to Montepulciano, and a walk about before returning to Todi and dinner at the Michelin starred restaurant Casa Vissani.  

Day 3 takes us to Citta' di Castello in northern Umbria for a truffle hunt, visit to the truffle museum and then a truffle lunch.  We will return to Todi, dinner will be on your own.

Day 4 we will travel to the capital of Perugia, and participate in a hands on chocolate class at Perugina, directed by their master chocolatier.

After the class we will head to Spello (my adopted hometown) and have a wine and olive oil tasting and lunch at Enoteca Properzio, one of the top 3 wine bars in Italy, owned by my family, the Angelini's. Wine and olive oils are available for shipment home.

On our return to Todi, we will stop in Deruta for a ceramics demonstration and time to shop for ceramics. Dinner on your own.

Day 5 we will check out of our hotel in Todi and head to Rome.  On our way into Rome we will stop at Eataly, a 4 story food emporium for lunch on your own (there are 18 restaurants in the store) and time to shop for goodies to take home.

We will arrive at our hotel, and in the afternoon be taken to a pizza class.  Dinner will be your very own creation.  

Day 6, after an early breakfast, we will be transferred to the Vatican for a private morning tour of the Vatican museums, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica. The rest of the day will be at your leisure to explore the eternal city.

 Day 7, Check out and transfer to the airport.

Our travel agent will be happy to arrange before and after tour extensions for you.
Since space is limited, a non-refundable deposit will be required by July 21, 2016
COST IS FOR THE LAND PORTION ONLY:  Merlene will be happy to arrange airfare.

Pricing, not including Air:  Euros 3670 - Per Person, Double Occupancy (Approximately $4168 at exchange rate on June 6, 2016)
Single Occupancy (two spots, subject to availability) - Euros 4135  (Charges to your credit card will be in U.S. dollars equal to the active Euro exchange rate on the date that your payments process.  No foreign exchange fee charges will be incurred for the conversion from Euros to U.S. dollars)   
Respond Quickly – This special tour is Limited to 20 participants! Note:  The group minimum for this experience is 16 participants.  If for some reason group numbers fall below  the minimum requirement, extra costs may apply.   
Payment Dates Deposit Deadline:   July 21, 2016 Final Payment Deadline:  January 20, 2017
*Non-refundable Deposit:   Per Person double - Euros 1650;   Single - Euros 1800 *Travel insurance is available for purchase and is strongly recommended. Should you have to cancel for a ‘covered’ reason, non-refundable trip costs may be refunded if you have purchased travel insurance.  Further details of this coverage protection are available.

            
                                       

For the full itinerary and/or to sign up for this tour, Contact- Merlene Lynch   -  
Protravel International Direct:  760-489-2230          Merlene.Lynch@Protravelinc.com       
 California Sellers of Travel CST# 2063352-40                                                                               

Join me in Italy, October 8 to 16th, 2016

This year in response to the many students who have expressed an interest in a culinary tour of Italy, I am partnering with Pro-Travel International and their amazing agent Merlene Lynch for a culinary tour of Central Italy and Rome. 
This is a fully escorted tour, I will join you everyday for our activities, acting as guide, and as interpreter, and our travel agent will be along to help with logistics. 
October 8th travel from US to Rome, arriving on October 9th.   The tour is limited to 16 participants, making it a small, intimate group, giving us flexibility to go to small towns, and have unique experiences.
Upon arrival in Rome, our travel agent will meet you and a private bus will transfer us to Todi, a beautiful, small hill town in Umbria and stay for 5 nights at the Hotel Bramante. Lunch upon arrival and rest time.  Dinner together at the hotel.

Our first full day, we will have a cooking class at the hotel with their renown chef, and lunch.  After a brief rest, we will head to Assisi, the home of St. Francis, the patron saint of Italy for a private tour, and dinner on your own.

Day two we will head to Pienza to a working farm, and watch as pecorino cheese is being made, and then enjoy lunch at the farm.  Pienza is the home of the best Pecorino in Italy.

After lunch a short trip to Montepulciano, and a walk about before returning to Todi and dinner at the Michelin starred restaurant Casa Vissani.  

Day 3 takes us to Citta' di Castello in northern Umbria for a truffle hunt, visit to the truffle museum and then a truffle lunch.  October is truffle season, so we are in for a treat.  We will return to Todi, dinner will be on your own. 

Day 4 we will travel to the capital of Perugia, and participate in a hands on chocolate class at Perugina, directed by their master chocolatier. 

After the class we will head to Spello (my adopted hometown) and have a wine and olive oil tasting and lunch at Enoteca Properzio, one of the top 3 wine bars in Italy, owned by my family, the Angelini's. Wine and olive oils are available for shipment home.

On our return to Todi, we will stop in Deruta for a ceramics demonstration and time to shop for ceramics. Dinner on your own.

Day 5 we will check out of our hotel in Todi and head to Rome.  On our way into Rome we will stop at Eataly, a 4 story food emporium for lunch on your own (there are 18 restaurants in the store) and time to shop for goodies to take home.

We will arrive at our hotel, and in the afternoon be taken to a pizza class.  Dinner will be your very own creation.  

Day 6, after an early breakfast, we will be transferred to the Vatican for a private morning tour of the Vatican museums, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica. The rest of the day will be at your leisure to explore the eternal city. 

 Day 7, Check out and transfer to the airport. 

Our travel agent will be happy to arrange before and after tour extensions for you. 
Since space is limited, a non-refundable deposit will be required by February 12, 2016.
COST IS FOR THE LAND PORTION ONLY:  Merlene will be happy to arrange airfare.

• The Per Person, Double Occupancy cost:  3395 Euro  (Equivalent to approximately $3678 in U.S. dollars as of exchange rate on 04JAN2016)
• Per Person, Single Occupancy cost:  3730 Euro (Equivalent to approximately $4041 in U.S. dollars as of the exchange rate on 04JAN2016)
• Please note:  The charge to your credit card will be in U.S. dollars to equal the active Euro exchange rate on the date that your payments process. 

• February12 , 2016:  Deposit deadline for NON-REFUNDABLE Deposit of 1290 Euro (Equivalent to approximately $1398 in U.S. dollars as of the exchange rate on 04JAN2016) 
  WE STRONGLY ADVISE TRIP INSURANCE
   
  Please e-mail me diane@dianephillips.com for more information, and for a booking form.