Bolgheri and Super Tuscans

The Tuscan coast is revered for its Super Tuscan wines, made in the Bordeaux Style. Think of these wines as Italian terroir growing and making wine with French-style grapes.  There are lots of variations on the theme, some using Sangiovese along with the French grapes.  The name Super Tuscan was coined by wine critic Robert Parker, who helped these wines become famous. Many of these wineries did not start making these wines until the late 1960’s, when the Marquese della Rocchetta releasing his Cabernet blend Sassicaia.  The winemakers in this area were tired of the Italian rules for specific wines, and released the blended wines as a Vino di Tavola or table wine.  The quality and popularity of these wines forced the Italian government to label these wines as IGT,  translated to mean Typical Geographic Indication. A Super Tuscan is often the signature of the wine producer;  wines that sometimes are difficult to find outside the latest vintage - or even to get a taste of. For this reason, the Super Tuscans (just like Brunellos, Barbaresco and Barolos)  are collectible wines and are in wine cellars around the world. 

A visit to Bolgheri is a must for wine lovers.  This part of Tuscany is dotted with small towns and seaside marinas. For this trip, we were based in Santa Cecilia on the Mediterranean, at a small apartment hotel. 

Our first stop was at Osteria del Tasso for lunch before heading to our first wine tasting.  This is an Osteria is an Antinori property, and delightful. The menu is geared towards pairing their wines with your meal.  It was a spectacular day, and the outdoor dining venue was special. 

 

Our first wine tasting was at Ornellaia, known for its Super Tuscans.  Blending cabernet sauvignon with cabernet franc, Merlot or Petit Verdot there are wines for every palate and price point.  Ornellaia is part of the Frescobaldi wine estates.  We were taken to the vineyards, and then to their art museum, which is worth the trip.  

The Vendemmia d’Artista project, artwork commissioned by Orenllaia was created by internationally renowned artists who sought inspiration in the wines. Although there are many wines under this label, we tasted Le Volte, Le Serre Nuove, Ornellaia DOC Superiore and Grappa.  After visiting this beautiful estate, we enjoyed a lovely sunset over the marina back in Santa Ceclia. 

Our next day began with a drive to Tua Rita, where they make one of my favorite wines, Giusto di Notri.  We had requested a wine pairing lunch, but first a drive to the vineyards, and a walk through the cellars.  The estate is beautiful, and the room for our pairing was exceptional.  We began with a white wine and proceeded through the reds, each with a different blend of grapes to showcase how the winemaker gets the best out of each blend. 

Our next stop was Grattamacco, after a long windy drive, we arrived over some back roads.  If you are interested in tasting here, make sure to provide ample time to get there since it’s off the beaten path.  Grattamacco depends on the clay soil for the minerality of its wines.  Its Vermentino is one of the best I’ve tasted in the area, crisp with a nice acidity.  Since this is a Super Tuscan area, their red wines are notable for their depth of flavor and what they call the natural transformation of the wine.  This means that the fruit speaks for itself without any intervention by the winemaker.  Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore contains  65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese and garners ratings in the high 90’s.  L’Alberello is another red grown in a method to combat the heat and drought conditions that can occur with the change in climate.  It is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc; the grapes are harvested by hand at the same time, and fermentation takes place immediately.  This wine is also rated in the high 90’s. The Bolgheri Rosso is an interesting table wine incorporating 30% Cabernet Sauvignon,30% Merlot,25% Cabernet Franc,10% Sangiovese, and 5% Petit Verdot.  The visit included a visit to the cellars and a bit of a tour of the small property.  The view from this vineyard is spectacular, and you appreciate the salt air and wind that influence the grapes in this region.  

Wine tastings in Italy are different from those in the US.  You must make an advance reservation; most of the time the cost is non-refundable.  Each of these wineries was worth the trip, and I would highly recommend all of them for outstanding Super Tuscan tastings. All of the wineries we visited were happy to ship cases home to the US for a price.  Next up, the Three B's: Barolo, Barbera and Barbaresco.